What is the "Yamaboko Junko," the highlight of the Gion Festival?

Gion Matsuri, one of the three major festivals in Japan, is a month-long festival held in July at Yasaka Shrine in Gion, Kyoto. The festival originated in the 9th century as a Shinto ritual to pray for the eradication of an epidemic that had spread through Kyoto. The highlight of the festival is the "Mae-matsuri" on July 17, when the portable shrine carrying the Yasaka Shrine's deities is welcomed into town, and the "Goto-matsuri" on July 24, when the shrine's deities are returned to the town. On both days, the parade of gorgeous floats will be held prior to the procession of the mikoshi. The number of floats is 23 for the Mae-matsuri and 11 for the Goto-matsuri. The floats, which look as if they came out of a picture scroll, are called "moving museums" and are registered as an intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO.

The Color of Takayama: 500 Years of History and Steps to Revival

It is said that the Yamaboko procession of the Gion Festival began in the early Muromachi Period (14th century). Before the Onin War (1467), when the city of Kyoto was burned to the ground, there were nearly 60 floats, and many of the existing floats have been in existence since this time. According to Mr. Junji Yamada, chairman of the Takayama Preservation Society, Takayama, which returned to the procession in 2022, is one of them, and was called "Takatsukahiyama" at that time. The name comes from the motif of "falconry," the hunting of prey with a hawk. At first, it was a small mountain to be carried on the shoulders, but later it developed into a large, roofed hikiyama. It became a "kujitorazu" mountain, in which the order of the annual parade was fixed, and it came to be the second last mountain to appear in the later part of the festival.

Takayama had such a long history, but it was severely damaged by heavy rain in 1826, and became a "rest mountain" that did not participate in the parade from the following year. In addition, the road to the return to the parade became even more difficult when the main body and most of the ornaments were destroyed by fire in the Great Fire that followed the Incident at the Forbidden Gate at the end of the Edo period. It was not until around 2012, nearly 190 years after the parade was suspended, that momentum for its restoration began to build. Volunteers and researchers in the town started study groups and surveys for the restoration, and in 2014, a Hayashikata (musical group) was formed. With support from all over Japan and the craftsmanship of Kyoto, the mountain will finally be restored in 2022. The long-sought goal of the festival was fulfilled.

Why the Revival After Almost 200 Years

What is the reason why Takayama was able to revive like a phoenix after a gap of nearly 200 years? Chairman Yamada says, "Takayama was almost completely destroyed by fire due to numerous disasters, but the town was able to carefully preserve and pass on the important sacred bodies. The heads and arms of the three existing gojintai were actually made more than 250 years ago, in the middle of the Edo period (1603-1868). Their presence must have been a source of great comfort to the people of the town. The township also has a record of Takayama's life written down during the suspension of the pilgrimage in the latter part of the Edo period. Believing in the revival of the festival in the future, the records left by our predecessors have been very useful," he said.

Takayama's three sacred bodies are Takasho, a falconer, Inukai, a dog handler, and Taruoi, a follower who carries a barrel of tools on his back. The scene is said to be that of a nobleman of the Heian period, Ukihei Aizawara, hawking on the Emperor's pleasure trip, which gives the scene a somewhat elegant atmosphere.

Close up! Takayama's Gion Festival 2022

This is a look back at a month of Takayama's revival in 2022 with photos. The schedule of events each year remains the same, so please refer to it for your next visit.

◉July 5: Kichibu-iri

The first ritual of the Gion Festival is called "Kippu-iri," which is held in the town of each float. In Takayama, it is held on July 5. On this day, people start practicing musical accompaniment in matching yukata (summer kimono). The musical accompaniment is played on three Japanese instruments: drums, gongs (kane), and flutes (nohkan), and children also participate. Under the faint lights of the festival lanterns, the light sound of "Konchikichin" echoed through the town.

◉July 18 - 20: mountain building

Takayama, which participates in the second part of the festival, began erecting the floats early in the morning of the 18th, the day after the completion of the first part of the festival. The foundation of the float is assembled without using nails, using a traditional technique called "Nawagarami," in which a rough rope is wrapped around the float.

Looking at the mountain building, one can see that Takayama uses both new materials donated by the donors and old materials with a sense of history. In fact, the big black wheel was donated by "Funaboko", the turret supporting the stage was donated by "Kikusuiboko", and the Ishimochi, which supports the center of gravity of the mountain, was donated by "Houshita-hoko" and used after being repaired. It is clear that many people's thoughts and feelings have been put into Takayama, transcending the ages.

◉July 20: first pull

The "Hiki-zome" event is held at the beginning of the festival to test out the completed assembly of the mountain. The beautifully decorated mountain is boarded by the musicians and travels about 400 meters along Sanjo Street and back. Even though it was a weekday, the streets were filled with people who watched the memorable first steps of the Takayama floats.

The floats of the Gion Festival are roughly divided into "hoko," "hikiyama (float)," and "kakiyama (carried by a person on his/her shoulders). Takayama is as large as a Hoko float and is characterized by a pine tree called "Shinmatsu". The restored Takayama stands 17 meters tall and weighs more than 10 tons, making it one of the largest floats in the Gion Festival. The sight of it moving forward with a loud grinding sound was a sight to behold.

◉July 21-23: Yoiyama (night festival)

Yoiyama" is an event held one to three days before the procession of the floats. Each town offers public boarding of the floats, the awarding of chimakisaki and good luck charms to ward off bad luck, and performances of Gion musical instruments. Takayama, the first Yoiyama after the restoration of the mountain, was so crowded that traffic was organized. When the brand-new Komagata lanterns were lit, the area was filled with a dazzling brilliance.

On the evening of July 23, "Hiyori Kagura" was dedicated to pray for clear skies for the Yamaboko procession on the following day.

July 24: Yamaboko Junko (halberd procession)

July 24, 2022. July 24, 2022, the day when Takayama will finally return to the Yamaboko Junko procession at the latter part of the festival after 196 years. The weather could not have been better, with a high temperature of 34.7 degrees Celsius! With the excitement along the roadside at its peak, Takayama crossed the Miyakooji Street in a dignified manner and successfully performed the biggest showpiece, "Tsujiwari (turning in the direction). Takayama's parade was successfully resurrected.

Takayama fulfilled his long-cherished wish on this day, but he said, "I have just started my career. The crucial moment is just around the corner," said Chairman Yamada. His eyes are already looking toward the future. The Takayama Museum is scheduled to be restored to its former splendor over time by decorating its white wooden base with lacquer and goldsmithing. There is still so much more to do," he says with a smile.

Going back in history, none of the floats became what they are today in a short period of time. The beauty of the floats has been refined over the years by the townspeople, with decorations and restorations being added little by little each year. It is a most exciting Experience to be a part of the restoration of this historic mountain. It would be a shame for our generation to keep it all to ourselves. I would like to nurture the next generation of bearers and look forward to seeing them carve out even more new history," says Chairman Yamada.

The fun is just beginning: How to enjoy Takayama in 2023 and beyond

There is no need to be discouraged because you did not get to see Takayama's historic moment in 2022. Now that he is back on the stage, you can visit him as many times as you like every summer. Besides, the reconstruction of Takayama has just begun. There is also the pleasure of witnessing and supporting the process of its evolution year by year. One of them is the collection of various kinds of Takayama's gifts. Starting with the dignified design of the "chimaki" to ward off bad luck, there are tenugui hand towels that change color every year, adorable "hawk," "dog," and "chimaki" shaped omikuji, stylish fans, picture postcards, stationery, etc. ....... Not only are they all good luck charms, but it is also nice to know that the sales help to support the future of Takayama.

Next time you visit Takayama in Yoiyama, pay attention to the ornaments called "kessohin. The decoration of Takayama in the late Edo period has begun to be revived by craftsmen in Kyoto. For example, the three-layered "mizuhiki" decorating the upper part of the body was restored by Tatsumura Bijutsu Orimono of Kyoto, using exquisite hand weaving techniques. Clouds and kirin (giraffes) appear to float three-dimensionally on the mizuhiki.

The wool fabric decorating the body of the mountain was imported from West Asia based on archival materials. Antique Turkish carpets are used for the front and back, and Persian carpets, newly made over two years in an Iranian workshop, are used for the side "dokake". The design of crabs, lotuses, pomegranates, and other exotic patterns are also reproduced on the floats.

The "mi-okuri," which adorns the rear of the floats, is where each float displays its most prized treasures. Takayama floats are decorated with the "Hawk (Hawk)" donated by Gekka Minagawa, a dyeing artist in Kyoto, in 1986 for the future restoration of the area. The figure of the hawk, which appears to flap its wings when it catches the wind, is also a spectacular sight. Don't miss it.

The more you know about the history and traditions of Takayama, the more profound they become. If you have a favorite float among the 34 floats of the Gion Festival, your attachment to the festival will deepen. Please visit the next Gion Festival and enjoy the charm of Takayama.

Cooperation: Takayama Preservation Society
https://www.takayama.or.jp/

Special Events at OMO5 Kyoto Gion by Hoshino Resorts