Who was Lafcadio Hearn, the writer who loved Japan? A journey through literature and history in Matsue, the setting of a morning drama.

Photo courtesy of: The Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum

Lafcadio Hearn (Koizumi Yakumo) is the author of "Kwaidan: Stories and Studies of Strange Things," which includes "Hoichi the Earless" and "The Snow Woman." Why did Hearn, born in Greece and raised in Ireland, visit Japan and become the Japanese citizen "Koizumi Yakumo"? With the broadcast of a television drama based on the lives of Yakumo and his wife, Setsu, his life is drawing renewed attention.
Yakumo traveled to and lived in various parts of Japan. Among them, Matsue City in Shimane Prefecture was the place of destiny where he met Setsu and discovered beauty in traditional Japanese customs and the Japanese spirit.
Why not take a trip to visit the places associated with him in Matsue, which Yakumo called the "Capital of the Land of the Gods" and where his footprints remain vividly?

Born in Greece. After a writing career in the United States, he moves to Japan.

Hearn was born to an Irish father and a Greek mother. The photo shows him around the age of 39 (Photo courtesy of the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum)
Yakumo was born to an Irish father and a Greek mother. Photo taken around age 39 (Photo courtesy of the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum)

Koizumi Yakumo, born Patrick Lafcadio Hearn, was born on the island of Lefkada in Greece in 1850 (the 3rd year of Kaei) and raised in Ireland. At the age of 16, he lost his left eye in a school accident. At 19, he moved to the United States and began his career as a journalist.
As he expanded his writing career through travelogues and translations, Hearn became fascinated by Japanese culture through the World's Fair held in New Orleans and English translations of the "Kojiki." In 1890 (the 23rd year of Meiji), he finally arrived in Japan, a long-held dream.

Assignment to Matsue. Meeting Setsu Koizumi.

Setsu around the age of 20. Born into the Koizumi family, a distinguished family of the Matsue Domain. She was soon adopted by the Inagaki family, a family of samurai, but later returned to the Koizumi family (Photo courtesy of the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum)
Setsu at age 20. Born into the Koizumi family, a distinguished family of the Matsue Domain. She was soon adopted by the Inagaki family, a samurai family of relatives, but later returned to the Koizumi family (Photo courtesy of the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum)

After arriving in Japan, Yakumo was assigned as an English teacher at the Shimane Prefectural Ordinary Middle School and the Normal School in Matsue. Koizumi Setsu was hired to take care of his daily needs. Setsu began living in Yakumo's house, and eventually, the two began living together as a married couple.
And from the language barrier between English and Japanese, "Hearn-speak" was born. "Hearn" was the nickname the people of Matsue used when calling Yakumo, such as "Hearn-san" or "Hearn-sensei." It was a unique language that omitted Japanese particles and used a word order that was a hybrid of English and Japanese, through which the two deepened their bond.

Life in Matsue, the "Capital of the Land of the Gods."

Hearn's desk and chair. Having lost sight in his left eye and being nearsighted in his right, he wrote by bringing his face close to a custom-made, high-set desk (Photo courtesy of the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum)
Yakumo's desk and chair. Because he was blind in his left eye and nearsighted in his right, he wrote by bringing his face close to a custom-made desk with raised legs (Photo courtesy of the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum)

In Matsue, Yakumo worked as an English teacher. Through his interactions with his students and the local townspeople, he discovered the charm of Japan's ancient customs, culture, and spirituality, which still breathe in this land where eight million gods reside.
One day in Matsue is chronicled in "The Chief City of the Province of the Gods," a chapter in his first book written after arriving in Japan, "Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan." He vividly depicts the scenery of the castle town, including its streets, ordinary people, nature, and living creatures, while also incorporating legends with great sensitivity.

Acquiring Japanese citizenship at age 46. And the birth of "Kwaidan."

A handwritten manuscript depicting a scene from "The Story of Mimi-nashi-Hoichi" included in "Kwaidan" (Photo courtesy of the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum)
A handwritten manuscript depicting a scene from "The Story of Mimi-nashi-Hoichi" included in "Kwaidan" (Photo courtesy of the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum)

After leaving Matsue, where he lived for about a year and three months, Yakumo moved to Kumamoto, Kobe, and Tokyo, where he taught at the Imperial University and Waseda University. At the age of 46, his naturalization was approved, and he changed his name to "Yakumo Koizumi." The name "Yakumo" is said to be derived from "Yakumo tatsu" (eight clouds rising), a pillow word for "Izumo" that appears in the "Kojiki," the oldest waka poem in Japan.

Blessed with three sons and one daughter, Yakumo introduced Japanese culture to the world through various works until his death in 1904 at the age of 54. The source of his late-life masterpiece, "Kwaidan," was the many ancient Japanese folktales and ghost stories told to him by Setsu, who loved stories. The ghost stories created as "retellings" through Yakumo's unique interpretation and expression harbor a sense of awe, human emotion, sadness, and nostalgia within the fear, leaving a deep lingering impression as literary works.
"Hoichi the Earless," "The Snow Woman," "Rokuro-kubi," and "Mujina."
"Kwaidan," which Yakumo and Setsu spun together, continues to be read today as an immortal masterpiece known to everyone.

Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum

The first exhibition room introduces Hearn's life in chronological order (Photo courtesy of the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum)
The first exhibition room introduces Yakumo's life in chronological order (Photo courtesy of the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum)

Adjacent to the former residence of Yakumo Koizumi, this memorial museum is directed by his great-grandson, Bon Koizumi. Based on the concept of Yakumo's "open mind," which was free from prejudice, the museum introduces his life and achievements through graphics and videos.
The memorial museum houses and exhibits precious items such as his desk, chair, clothing, and kiseru (pipe), as well as handwritten manuscripts, first editions, and family photographs. If you are interested in Yakumo's works, be sure to visit the library, which is lined with his books and related literature. Why not take your time and immerse yourself in the world woven by Yakumo?

Photo courtesy of the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum
Photo courtesy of: The Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum
Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum
  • Address322 Okudani-cho, Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture MAP
  • AccessApprox. 20-minute walk from Ichibata Electric Railway Matsue Shinjiko Onsen Station
    Approx. 10-minute drive from JR Matsue Station
  • Bus accessApprox. 16 minutes by "Gurutto Matsue Lake Line Bus" from JR Matsue Station, then a short walk from the "Koizumi Yakumo Kinenkan-mae" stop.
  • Business hours9:00–18:00 (until 17:00 from October to March; last admission 30 minutes before closing).
  • ClosedOpen every day (closed a few times a year for maintenance).
  • Admission FeeAdults 600 yen, elementary/junior high students 300 yen; 2-facility joint ticket with the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum is 800 yen for adults and 400 yen for elementary/junior high students.
  • TEL0852-21-2147
  • ParkingNone

Lafcadio Hearn's Former Residence

It is said that Hearn wore Japanese clothes and gazed at the garden every day. His favorite desk and chair (replicas) are also on display, and visitors can sit in them (Photo courtesy of the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum)
It is said that Yakumo wore Japanese clothes and gazed at the garden every day. His favorite desk and chair (replica) are also on display, and visitors can sit in them (Photo courtesy of the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum)

Yakumo lived in Matsue for approximately one year and three months. He spent the latter five months of this time in the former samurai residence of the Negishi family, retainers of the Matsue Domain, which is now open to the public as his former residence. It is said that Yakumo wished to live in a samurai residence with a garden. He dearly loved the garden that surrounded three sides of the house, and in the chapter "Of a Mirror and a Bell" from his book "Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan," he wrote about the beauty created by the trees and stones, as well as the charm of the garden where insects and other creatures hide. At his former residence, one can feel the traces of the time when Yakumo and Setsu lived there, starting with the beautiful garden and continuing throughout the house.

Photo courtesy of the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum
Photo courtesy of: The Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum
Lafcadio Hearn's Former Residence
  • Address315 Kitahori-cho, Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture MAP
  • AccessApprox. 20-minute walk from Ichibata Electric Railway Matsue Shinjiko Onsen Station
    Approx. 10-minute drive from JR Matsue Station
  • Bus accessApprox. 16 minutes by "Gurutto Matsue Lake Line Bus" from JR Matsue Station, then a short walk from the "Koizumi Yakumo Kinenkan-mae" stop.
  • Business hours9:00–18:00 (until 17:00 from October to March; last admission 30 minutes before closing).
  • ClosedOpen every day (closed a few times a year for maintenance).
  • Admission FeeAdults 400 yen, elementary/junior high students 200 yen; 2-facility joint ticket with the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum is 800 yen for adults and 400 yen for elementary/junior high students.
  • TEL0852-21-2147 (Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum)
  • ParkingNone

Matsue Ohashi Bridge

Matsue Ohashi Bridge, decorated with bronze giboshi (ornamental finials) on granite railings. It is the most historic of the four bridges spanning the Ohashi River
Matsue Ohashi Bridge, featuring granite railings adorned with bronze giboshi finials. It is the most historic of the four bridges spanning the Ohashi River.

This bridge spans the Ohashi River, which flows north to south through Matsue, and was first built in 1608 during the construction of Matsue Castle. The current bridge is the 17th generation and is cherished by citizens as a symbol of Matsue, the City of Water.
At the southern end of the bridge, the "Gensuke Memorial Monument" catches the eye. Gensuke was made a human sacrifice after the initial construction faced difficulties, and the central pier was called the "Gensuke Pillar." Yakumo recorded this sad legend in "Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan."
In the same book, Yakumo also described the sound of geta (wooden clogs) worn by people crossing the bridge as musical, like a grand ball, and unforgettable.

Matsue Ohashi Bridge
  • AddressMatsue City, Shimane Prefecture MAP
  • AccessApprox. 15-minute walk from Ichibata Electric Railway Matsue Shinjiko Onsen Station
    Approx. 12-minute walk or 4-minute drive from JR Matsue Station.
  • TEL0852-27-5843 (Matsue Tourism Association)
  • ParkingNone

Matsue Castle

Also known as "Chidori-jo" (Plover Castle) because the gables on the roof look like a plover spreading its wings. The "Castle Festival" is held during the cherry blossom season
Also known as 'Chidori-jo' (Plover Castle) because the gables on its roof resemble a plover spreading its wings. The 'Castle Festival' is held during the cherry blossom season.

Matsue Castle was built by Yoshiharu Horio, the founder of Matsue, between 1607 and 1611. It is one of only 12 existing castle keeps in Japan and has been designated a National Treasure. On the top floor, there is a watchtower with a 360-degree view, offering a panoramic look at the city of Matsue and Lake Shinji.
Various stories remain regarding the castle's construction. When the stone wall construction did not go well, a beautiful girl who was a skilled dancer was chosen as a human sacrifice. Since then, it is said that the castle would shake if a Bon dance was held in the castle town, so even today, Bon dances are not held near Matsue Castle.
In his book "Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan," Yakumo described Matsue Castle as being like a dragon made of gathered strange things, and he also touched upon the story of this girl.

Matsue Castle
  • Address1-5 Tonomachi, Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture MAP
  • AccessApprox. 16-minute walk from Matsue Shinjiko Onsen Station on the Ichibata Electric Railway
    Approx. 7-minute drive from JR Matsue Station
  • Bus accessApprox. 10-minute ride on the "Gurutto Matsue Lake Line Bus" from JR Matsue Station, get off at "National Treasure Matsue Castle (Otemae)" and walk for approx. 2 minutes
  • Business hoursHonmaru 8:00–18:30 (until 17:30 from Oct to Mar),
    Castle Tower 8:30–18:00 (until 17:00 from Oct to Mar) *Reception closes 30 minutes before closing time.
  • ClosedOpen every day
  • Admission FeeHonmaru is free; Castle Tower is 800 yen for adults, 400 yen for elementary and junior high school students.
  • TEL0852-21-4030 (Matsue Castle Park Management Office)
  • ParkingNone (Use the municipal Matsue Castle Otemae Parking Lot, etc.)

Fumon-in Temple

At Kangetsuan, you can also enjoy matcha and seasonal Japanese sweets, so we recommend taking a break while gazing at the garden as it changes with the seasons.
At Kangetsuan, you can enjoy matcha and seasonal Japanese sweets, so we recommend taking a break while gazing at the garden, which changes with the seasons.

A Tendai sect temple founded around 1607–1611 (Keicho 12–16) when Matsue Castle and its castle town were built. The temple grounds feature a charming garden with a heart-shaped pond (Shinji-ike).
The "Kangetsu-an" tea house on the grounds is a Hosokawa Sansai-style tea room where Matsudaira Harusato, the seventh lord of the Matsue Domain and a famous daimyo tea master known by the name Fumai, often enjoyed tea ceremonies. It is said that Yakumo also received tea lessons at Kangetsu-an.
The "Azuki-togi Bridge," which once stood in front of Fumon-in, is associated with a legend that singing the Noh play 'Kakitsubata' would bring misfortune, and it also appears as a ghost story in Yakumo's 'Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan'.

Fumon-in Temple
  • Address27 Kitada-machi, Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture MAP
  • AccessApprox. 25-minute walk from Matsue Shinjiko Onsen Station on the Ichibata Electric Railway
    Approx. 7-minute drive from JR Matsue Station
  • Bus accessApprox. 14-minute ride on the "Gurutto Matsue Lake Line Bus" from JR Matsue Station, get off at "Shiomi Nawate" and walk for approx. 7 minutes
  • Business hoursFree to visit, Kangetsuan 8:00–16:00
  • ClosedKangetsuan is closed on Tuesdays
  • Admission FeeKangetsuan 300 yen, 1,000 yen with matcha
  • TEL0852-21-1095
  • ParkingFree

Shiroyama Inari Shrine

Among the more than 2,000 stone foxes that existed at the time, Yakumo's favorites were the pair that stood in front of the Zuishinmon Gate. They are currently housed to the right of the worship hall (Image source: PIXTA).
Among the more than 2,000 stone foxes that existed at the time, Yakumo's favorites were a pair located in front of the Zuishinmon Gate. They are currently housed to the right of the worship hall. (Image source: PIXTA)

Founded in 1638 (Kanei 15) by Matsudaira Naomasa, the first lord of the Matsue Domain. The "Horan-enya" festival, a decennial ritual, is one of Japan's three great boat festivals, and the grand procession of about 100 boats is a spectacular sight.
The temple grounds are lined with stone foxes of various shapes and sizes. It is said that Yakumo was drawn to these unique stone foxes and visited often.
Yakumo's book 'Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan' also contains a legend regarding the shrine's founding. It is said that when Matsudaira Naomasa entered Matsue, a beautiful boy calling himself Inari Masaemon appeared and vanished after promising to protect the castle town from fire if a residence was built for him. The shrine was built as a result, and numerous stone foxes still watch over it today.

Image source: PIXTA
Image source: PIXTA
Shiroyama Inari Shrine
  • Address477 Tonomachi, Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture MAP
  • AccessApprox. 20-minute walk from Matsue Shinjiko Onsen Station on the Ichibata Electric Railway
    Approx. 7-minute drive from JR Matsue Station
  • Bus accessApprox. 10-minute ride on the "Gurutto Matsue Lake Line Bus" from JR Matsue Station, get off at "National Treasure Matsue Castle (Otemae)" and walk for approx. 10 minutes
  • Business hoursFree admission
  • TEL0852-21-1389
  • ParkingNone (Use the municipal Matsue Castle Otemae Parking Lot, etc.)

Ichirikido Kyomise Main Store "Hearn's Yokan"

Available in two varieties, red and Ogura, at 1,080 yen each. Because they contain more bean paste than modern yokan, they are softer and have a smoother texture.
Available in two types, red bean and Ogura, for 1,080 yen each. They contain more bean paste than modern yokan, making them softer and smoother on the palate.

Matsue is renowned as one of the "three great confectionery centers of Japan," alongside Kyoto and Kanazawa. The tea culture established by Matsudaira Harusato (tea name: Fumai), the seventh lord of the Matsue Domain and a famous daimyo tea master, still lives on today. Ichirikido is a long-established confectionery shop founded during the Horeki era (1751–1764) of the Edo period, serving as a purveyor to the Matsue Domain for generations since its first proprietor.
Yakumo, who had a sweet tooth, was particularly fond of yokan (sweet bean jelly), and it is said that even after moving to Tokyo, his wife Setsu would have it sent from Matsue. "Hearn's Yokan" is a signature product recreated based on the recipe book written by the sixth-generation owner of Ichirikido to revive the taste of that time.

Ichirikido Kyomise Main Store
  • Address53 Suetsugu-honmachi, Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture MAP
  • AccessApprox. 15-minute walk from Matsue Shinjiko Onsen Station on the Ichibata Electric Railway
    Approx. 15-minute walk or 5-minute drive from JR Matsue Station
  • Bus accessApprox. 7-minute ride on the "Gurutto Matsue Lake Line Bus", get off at "Kyobashi" and walk for approx. 5 minutes
  • Business hours10:00–18:00, until 17:00 on Sundays
  • ClosedThursdays
  • TEL0852-28-5300
  • ParkingNone (Please use the Kyomachi Shopping Street parking lot)

KAI Tamatsukuri is a hot spring ryokan located in Tamatsukuri Onsen, said to be one of the oldest hot springs in Japan. Guests can enjoy bathing in the open-air baths provided in all guest rooms, savor seafood from the San'in region, taste fine sake from Shimane—the birthplace of Japanese sake—and participate in activities that allow them to experience Shimane's traditional culture and folk crafts. Until March 20, 2026, the ryokan is offering a stay program titled "A Journey Following Lafcadio Hearn." Why not take this opportunity to learn more about Hearn and immerse yourself in his worldview?

Touring places associated with Yakumo by rickshaw

The "Rickshaw Guided Tour" takes you to places associated with Lafcadio Hearn, such as his former residence, the Matsue Ohashi Bridge, and temples that served as settings for his ghost stories, all while riding in a rickshaw of the type Hearn himself favored. It is a private tour where you can re-experience the scenery Hearn likely saw, all while listening to the guidance of a guide who knows Matsue inside and out.

Enjoying ghost stories while tasting the "Yakumo Sake Set"

The evening's entertainment is the "Kaidan Tea Room" held in the ryokan's tea room. It begins with an explanation of Hearn's life and the background behind the writing of "Kwaidan," followed by a reading of "Yuki-onna" and "Hoichi the Earless" accompanied by original video effects, inviting you into the world of ghost stories woven by Hearn.
Along with these masterpieces, you can enjoy "Kimi Shigure," a Japanese sweet that Hearn was fond of as a snack with his evening drinks, and the "Yakumo Sake Set." The Kimi Shigure is a KAI Tamatsukuri original, made with sake in the bean paste. Three types of sake, including nigori (unfiltered) sake, are available. You can enjoy these gems of literature along with fine sake.

The "Yakumo Sake Set," featuring egg yolk shigure and three types of sake.
'Yakumo Sake Set' featuring egg yolk shigure and three types of sake.
KAI Tamatsukuri
  • Address1237 Tamatsukuri, Tamayu-cho, Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture MAP
  • AccessApprox. 20 minutes by car from JR Matsue Station
    Approx. 5 minutes by car from JR Tamatsukuri-Onsen Station
  • TEL050-3134-8092 (Reception hours: 9:30 - 18:00)
*The information provided is current as of the date of the article's update. Please check in advance as it may be subject to change.