1. what is the "Sunrise" sleeper express, a running hotel?

I first became interested in train travel 17 years ago when I boarded a sleeper train. The first sleeper train I took, the Fuji Hayabusa, was so much fun that I rode the Hokutosei, Nihonkai, Twilight Express, Cassiopeia, Kitaguni, and other sleeper trains that were running at the time. However, time passed and they disappeared in the blink of an eye.

Today, the only sleeper train in regular daily service is the "Sunrise" sleeper express. This time, I traveled on the precious Sunrise to Izumo Taisha, which I visit every year.

The "Sunrise" sleeper express is a sleeper train that makes one round trip each day between Tokyo and Izumo and between Tokyo and Takamatsu. The down train departs Tokyo Station with 14 cars and splits at Okayama Station into seven "Sunrise Izumo" cars bound for Izumo City and seven "Sunrise Seto" cars bound for Takamatsu. The Sunrise trains departing from Izumo City Station and Takamatsu Station on the up train will be connected at Okayama Station and head for Tokyo Station.

For your information, the trains going up and down originate from Tokyo Station, and those going away from Tokyo Station are called "down" and those going toward Tokyo Station are called "up. This is different for trains that do not depart from or arrive at Tokyo Station.

The Sunrise departs Tokyo at 21:50. It arrives at Izumo Station at 10:00 the next day, about 12 hours later, and at Takamatsu Station at about 7:30 the next day, about 9.5 hours later.

All Sunrise trains are private rooms except for the open carpeted area called "Nobi-Nobi Seat," and are divided into the following types: Single, Single Deluxe, Single Twin, and Sunrise Twin. Each has a different price, so please find out in advance which type you would like to board.

2. how to get a ticket for Sunrise

Now, those who are interested in the "Sunrise" sleeper express already know this much. The problem is to arrange tickets. The Sunrise has become so popular that it is fully booked every day. In recent years, it has become difficult to obtain tickets for individual travelers.

Train tickets go on sale at 10:00 a.m. one month in advance. The most common methods are to line up at the Midori-no-Madoguchi (Midori-no Madoguchi) or to make a reservation by yourself on the "e5489" website or other means. It is advisable to find a Midori-no-Madoguchi (Midori-no-Window) that is open at 10:00 a.m. in advance.

Tickets often sell out within a few minutes, so all you need to do is luck. Even if your desired date is sold out, it is important not to give up on anything. Sometimes there are cancellations, so it is a good idea to check often to see if there are any openings.

Especially at the last minute, two days before boarding, when cancellation fees are higher, there is a possibility that a seat will become available due to a cancellation. If you are able to respond on short notice, it is recommended to aim for that.

The Sunrise does not have onboard sales. This means that you have to prepare and bring your own food and alcohol. I usually buy ekiben and sake at the "Ekiben-ya Matsuri Gransta Tokyo Branch" in Tokyo Station. I also bring snacks and soft drinks from convenience stores.

There are soft drink vending machines in the train, but sometimes they are all sold out, so it is better to bring something with you.

In the private rooms of the Sunrise, you will find a plastic cup, pajamas, slippers, and other supplies. You can use these cups to drink wine or bring them to the washroom located outside the room when brushing your teeth. The rooms also have mirrors, hangers, and electrical outlets for charging smartphones.

You can also use the shower room by purchasing a shower card, which is sold in Cars 3 and 10. There is a limit to the number of shower cards available, so to obtain one at Tokyo Station, it is recommended that you get in line at the platform around 9:00 p.m. before the Sunrise arrives at the station. No towels are provided, so bring your own.

3. enjoy the feeling of a secret base in a single twin room

The largest number of private rooms on the Sunrise are "Single" rooms. Single" rooms are available on the first and second floors, with the second floor being particularly recommended. You can spend your time looking out the window at the distant lights and the moon. This is the room I have been on the most.

This time, I boarded the "Single Twin," which is my favorite. As the name suggests, "Single Twin" is a private room for two people, with bunk beds above and below. As the name suggests, it is a private room for two people. Actually, it can also be used by one person, although it is a bit more expensive than a single room.

When boarding, both the upper and lower bunks are beds. However, if you remove the green mattress on the lower bunk and take out the desk, the room turns into a living room! This gimmick is only available in single twin rooms.

I love to work in the living room (usually without getting much done), drink sake and eat ekiben, and then sleep in the upper bed when I feel sleepy. This may be due in large part to the fact that when I was a child, I longed for a room with a study desk built into the bottom of the bunk beds.

The private room can be locked from both outside and inside. When you need to go to the bathroom, etc., lock the door from the outside with a ten-key system.

Also, after the train departs, the conductor will go around to each room to check your ticket. He will knock on the door, and you will have to unlock the door. If you can meet the conductor before the train departs, he will check your ticket on the spot.

I spread out my computer and did a little work, then had a drink and a bite to eat while watching the scenery go by. Since I had already eaten dinner, I spent a long time drinking red wine and snacking on "Kokugikan Yakitori," a snack I often buy as a side dish.

Recently, this is the most common combination of food to bring on Sunrise. However, if I didn't sleep, it would affect the next day, so I cut loose there and got ready for bed.

4. you can get an ekiben on board!

The next morning, the Sunrise Izumo and Sunrise Seto will separate at Okayama. You can go back and forth between the two cars while they are running together, but the doors will be closed before the train arrives in Okayama.
You can go out to the platform to observe the detachment. However, those on the Sunrise Seto should be aware that the train departs as soon as it is detached.

Since I have seen the detachment many times before, I got up after 7:00 a.m. without observing it this time. 7:44 a.m. arrival at Niimi Station, where you can pick up a boxed lunch at the station.

Shouldn't there be no in-train sales? You may have thought so. Actually, you can pick up an ekiben (boxed meal) from the Sunrise Izumo train without leaving the train. If you make a reservation in advance for an ekiben from Osaka-ya, an ekiben shop located in Niimi Station, it will be delivered to the platform. (The minimum price for delivery is 1,500 yen.)

Since I have used this service many times, I receive my ekiben safely from someone I know well and eat it in the lounge. The lounge has a counter table and eight seats, with a very good view of the full-length windows. It is often crowded at sunrise.

The ekiben we bought was the Hyakujugo Hakubi Line Brave Bento. The pumpkin represents the livery of the 115 Series, and the green beans on top of the takuan (radish) represent the railroad tracks. It was a very satisfying ekiben with plenty of side dishes.

After passing Matsue, you will see Lake Shinji on the right side of the train in the direction you are traveling. While looking at the shimmering surface of Lake Shinji, I tidy up my room. I also finish my makeup indoors. It is almost time to arrive at the last stop, Izumo City Station.

(5) Take the Ichibata Train to Izumo-taisha Shrine

The train arrives at Izumo Station at 10:00, on time. The Sunrise train is sometimes delayed or cancelled. It is a good idea to have an idea of what to do so that you will not panic if this happens.

From Izumo City Station on the JR line, we will go a short distance to Izumo City Station on the Ichibata Electric Railway, where we will board the train again. The Ichibata Tramway, commonly known as "Bata-den," is a local train line running from Matsue City to Izumo City in Shimane Prefecture.

Riding the Ichibata Tram, we leisurely make our way to Izumo Taisha-mae Station. On the way to Izumo-taisha-mae Station, just past Takahama Station, you will see a row of torii (shrine gates) lined up in a row from the window. This is... Awazu Inao Shrine Awazu Inari Shrine (Awazu Inari Shrine). Looking from the outside of the train, it is a strange sight to see the train running through the approach to the shrine, and it is a famous photo spot among railroad fans.

We have arrived at Izumo Taisha-mae Station. Next to the platform at this station, a very old train is on display. The "Dehani Type 50" is the car that appeared in the movie "RAILWAYS. The floor inside the car is wooden, and the walls and window frames are also made of wood. The net shelves are properly covered with netting. The part of the train where luggage is carried is still called a "net shelf," but it is rare to see one that is really covered with netting.

6. paying a visit to Izumo-taisha Shrine

It takes about five minutes on foot from the station to Izumo Taisha Shrine. The approach to the shrine is lined with various souvenir stores and restaurants. Since I am dragging a suitcase, I first leave my luggage in a coin locker located in the basement of a Property called "Gohan Yokocho" in front of Izumo Taisha Shrine. However, please note that the coin lockers here close at 17:00.

This is my ninth visit to Izumo Taisha Shrine. I worship the god of Izumo Taisha on my home Shinto altar as well.

Izumo Taisha is always crowded with tourists and worshippers, and the "kamizai month" is especially crowded. Usually, October of the lunar calendar is called "kaminashizuki," because the gods gather here at Izumo Taisha and the gods are absent in other parts of the country. In Izumo, on the contrary, it is called "kamizaitsuki" because the gods gather there.
Incidentally, the Kanzai month in 2025 will be from November 29 to December 6.

Praying at Izumo Taisha is the same as at a regular shrine, " Instead of the usual "Nirei Ni-Beat-Ippou" of a regular shrine, the Nirei shikatte ichiryo at Izumo-taisha Shrine.

In addition, I ask for a prayer service. If you apply for a prayer, you can enter the Yatsushimon (eight-legged gate) and approach the main shrine to pray. The priest will also explain to you about the architecture, so you can learn more about Izumo Taisha Shrine.

7. enjoy food after visiting Izumo-taisha Shrine

After visiting the shrine, we go to eat Izumo soba (buckwheat noodles) as we always do. Each time, I try a different restaurant, but this time I visited "Izumo Soba Kanaya", which was established in the early Showa period. It is a restaurant that is easy to enter even for a single person, and I had Izumo's specialty "3-color Wariko" 3-tiered dish. The soba is firm and you can really taste the flavor of the buckwheat. The soup stock made from sea urchins and other ingredients was also delicious.

It was very hot that day, so when I saw a sign that said "Soy Sauce Ice Cream," I ran into Izumo-ya, a sweet shop in front of the Taisha Gate.

The soy sauce ice cream was made with soy sauce from Oka Moichiro Shoten, a soy sauce shop on the cotton road in Izumo City. The first bite had a flavor similar to miso, but as you continue eating it, you will notice a sweet soy sauce taste. I have had soy sauce ice cream in Kanazawa before, and I realized that the taste is totally different depending on the characteristics of the local soy sauce.

All tickets for popular and sightseeing trains in Japan (mainly JR), including the "Sunrise" sleeper express, go on sale at 10:00 a.m. one month in advance. However, this does not apply to travel products that include a "train ticket + meal" package.
If you want to take a train that you are absolutely sure you want to take, plan your trip early! Make your travel plans early and be prepared to pick up your tickets at 10:00 a.m. on the day they go on sale.