A Trip to Hakodate and Southern Hokkaido via the Hokkaido Shinkansen "Gran Class" and the South Hokkaido Railway "Nagamare Kaikyo"
Hello, I'm Yasukorn, a manga artist and writer.
I am currently at Tokyo Station. I am about to board the Shinkansen's Gran Class.As someone who loves new things, I already rode the Tohoku Shinkansen's Gran Class and the Hokuriku Shinkansen's Gran Class as soon as they opened.
Gran Class is a car where you can receive special service. If possible, I want to ride it for as long as I can... so this time, I am taking the longest distance route where I can enjoy Gran Class, from Tokyo Station to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station,and setting off on a railway journey to the Hakodate and Southern Hokkaido area.
●What is the Shinkansen Gran Class?
Gran Class(GranClass)isA special car class available on some Tohoku/Hokkaido Shinkansen (E5/H5 series), Hokuriku Shinkansen (E7/W7 series), and Joetsu Shinkansen (E7 series) trains.To use Gran Class, you must pay the fare and limited express fee, in addition to the Gran Class fee.Please note that some Shinkansen trains with Gran Class do not offer onboard service.
Inside the car, there are 1+2 seat configurations with only 18 seats in total, making it very spacious. I brought a suitcase, but even with my luggage at my feet, I had plenty of room to stretch my legs. I immediately took off my shoes and changed into the provided plush slippers.
The seats can be reclined up to 45 degrees using the remote control on the side. Because of the back-shell design, it does not disturb the person behind you at all. The leg rest and footrest also rise, allowing you to relax in a nearly horizontal position.
Michikusa Expert
On outbound trains from Tokyo, the Gran Class car is located at the front of the Shinkansen.
●Enjoying light meals and drinks in Gran Class
The Shinkansen departed around 9:30 AM. Soon after, a dedicated attendant began distributing welcome sets (water, snacks, a wet towel, etc.). For the light meal, you can choose between Western and Japanese options. I had trouble deciding because both used corn, which I love, but I chose the Japanese meal. This menu is supervised by Japanese chef Hiromitsu Nozaki.
By the way, this summer menu is served from July to September. The menu changes seasonally throughout the year.
Local dishes from the Shonai region of Yamagata and dishes using local ingredients are served in a luxurious black box. The simmered fried eggplant was very flavorful and delicious. The seasoning of the steamed chicken goes well with alcohol. The overall portion is small, so I finished it in no time.
Oh, that's right, I ordered white wine first to go with the meal. The red and white wines and sake come in small bottles with exclusive Gran Class labels. You definitely want to choose something that feels special, right? Other alcoholic beverages include beer and cognac.
I also reached for the snacks that were distributed earlier. The snack bag contained sweet and sour Aomori apples and nuts, so choosing red wine next was the right decision.
If you wish, you can also have tea snacks. This time, it was a pound cake made with Gran Class original peach jam from Fukushima Prefecture.I also love drinking red wine while eating something sweet. Finally, I had some coffee.
Michikusa Expert
If you ask, you can receive a paper shoehorn with the Gran Class mark on it.
●The Hokkaido Shinkansen running 240 meters below sea level
Feeling full and enjoying the comfort of the seat, I was dozing off, but I woke up to the announcement that we would soon be entering the Seikan Tunnel. One of the things I look forward to most on the Hokkaido Shinkansen is this Seikan Tunnel, which runs under the seabed of the Tsugaru Strait.
In the past, sleeper limited express trains like the "Hokutosei" used to cross through the Seikan Tunnel to get to Hokkaido, but nowadays, you can mainly only pass through it on this Hokkaido Shinkansen.
The electronic display board at the front also showed information stating that the Seikan Tunnel is 53.85 km long. This length is the longest in Japan. Furthermore, it is said to be about 240 meters below sea level, boasting the greatest depth in the world. Doesn't it make you excited to imagine that you are traveling under the seabed like that?
This is an experience you cannot have on an airplane, so when you ride the Hokkaido Shinkansen, do not miss this precious opportunity.
By the way, I often write that "trains are not just a means of transportation," but when it comes to the Shinkansen, honestly, there are many times I ride it just for the sake of travel. However, in the case of Gran Class, it is strange how the hospitality and food and drink in a high-class carriage suddenly give it the feeling of a journey, as if you were riding a luxury sightseeing train.
Michikusa Expert
Whether you treat riding the Shinkansen as just "transportation" or a "journey" is up to you!
●Riding the handmade-feel sightseeing train "Nagamare Kaikyo-go"
About four hours from Tokyo, I arrived at Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station just after 1:30 PM. I transferred to the Hakodate Liner and headed to Hakodate Station. Hakodate is a city I have visited many times, so it gives me a sense of security.
The "Nagamare Kaikyo" train I am about to board is a sightseeing train of the South Hokkaido Railway. Until just a moment ago, I was riding the state-of-the-art Shinkansen, but now I am boarding a contrasting train, a remodeled old JNR KiHa 40 series. The KiHa 40 series is not an "electric train" powered by electricity, but a "diesel train" that runs on a diesel engine.
While JR Hokkaido no longer operates the KiHa 40 series in regular service, the South Hokkaido Railway Company still runs eight of them in regular operation. Two of these, built in 1980, are wrapped in the "Nagamare Kaikyo" livery. For train enthusiasts, the chance to ride these precious, vintage vehicles is a real treat.
The route departs from Hakodate Station, heads to the terminal at Kikonai Station, and then turns back to return to Hakodate Station. The trip takes about 4 hours and 10 minutes—about the same amount of time as the Hokkaido Shinkansen I rode earlier, though the distance traveled is quite different.
It was a very hot day, and when I boarded, I discovered there was no air conditioning. Although there were electric fans inside the car, I wondered if someone who hates the heat like me could endure it...
However, since the KiHa 40 series is an older vehicle, it is possible to open the windows. A pleasant breeze blew in from outside. It's moments like these that make me feel like I'm truly on a journey.
Michikusa Expert
The experience of riding a train while feeling the wind is unique to old train cars.
●Enjoying local gourmet food sold by vendors at station stops
The interior is decorated with fishing nets, plush fish toys, and glass fishing floats. It has a handmade, cozy atmosphere.
Drinks and snacks were already prepared on the table. For the drink, you can choose between Hakodate Beer orHokkaido's soul drink, Kohara's Co-up Guarana,I, of course, chose the beer. By the way, the first drink is included in the travel fare.
The train departed Hakodate Station at 3:50 PM. Shortly after, staff from the South Hokkaido Railway Company headquarters along the line waved to see us off.
I wanted to start drinking my beer right away, but since I like to have something to eat while I drink, I held off until we reached Kamiiso Station near 4:30 PM.
At Kamiiso Station, local specialties are sold on the platform. On board the train, a500-yen voucherthat can be used for these sales was distributed.
Actually, I had ridden the "Nagamare Kaikyo" train once before, in the autumn seven years ago. I bought some "hokki clam shumai" from the vendors back then and it was delicious, so I used my 500-yen voucher to get it again!
The combination of this shumai and beer is simply the best. Hokki clams are primarily harvested along the Pacific coast of Hokkaido. The savory flavor that lingers in your mouth is irresistible. I truly love pairing local alcoholic beverages with local snacks.
After passing through the tunnel, the sea and Mount Hakodate appeared on the left. The train made a brief operational stop at a place called Yafurai Signal Station.Since there was plenty of time, I took some photos of the sea and Mount Hakodate. Several other trains passed by as well.
Next, the train stopped for about 10 minutes at Oshima-Tobetsu Station, the gateway to the Trappist Monastery. The station building itself has a silhouette like a church.The station interior was also decorated with stained glass and had a wonderful atmosphere.
From there, the train ran along the coast for a while. On board, a staff member from the South Hokkaido Railway provided a guide to the sights along the way.
When we arrived at the final stop, Kikonai Station, near 6:00 PM, there were people there to welcome us. And to my surprise, two "Nagamare Kaikyo-go" train cars (one of which was operating as a local train) were lined up on the platform! This is a rare sight.
At Kikonai Station, there is the "Michi-no-Eki Misogi-no-Sato Kikonai," and since the train stops for about 40 minutes, you can buy things like alcohol at the shops during that time. I ate the "Salt Soft-Serve Ice Cream," which is said to be a local specialty.
Michikusa Expert
Meals are served starting from Kikonai Station. You are free to bring your own food, so it is fine to buy something and bring it on board.
●A highly satisfying meal! An unexpected barbecue on the station platform
We departed Kikonai Station just after 6:30 PM as it started to get dark outside. When I returned to my seat, a pasta set was waiting for me on the table.The menu consisted of three items: "Chef's Recommendation! Amatriciana," "Mori-machi Hikoma Pork Roast & Salad," and "Coppendoudou Pakupaku Salt Bread."
I also bought some red wine from the onboard sales. Both the pasta and the bread went very well with the wine.It felt like the main course had arrived suddenly, but this is where the train really starts to show what it's capable of.
At 7:00 PM, we arrived at Moheji Station. At Moheji Station, believe it or not, they were having a barbecue on the platform.
The delicious aroma of grilled seafood filled the air. What you can get here is the "Isaribi-yaki Bento." Grilled surf clam, whelk, and scallop are placed in a box along with salad and zangi (fried chicken).
When I returned to the train with that, next came a "shiso-flavored" rice ball, inari sushi, rolled omelet, and pickles. Then, pound cake was served as well.In the final stretch, the inside of the train was like a competitive eating contest. The food just keeps coming—that is the hallmark of this train. Still, it's an incredible amount of food, isn't it!
Michikusa Expert
As was the case last time, I couldn't finish the rice balls and other food, so I took them home.
●Returning to Hakodate at night with a full stomach
Departing Moheji Station around 19:20, I arrived at Hakodate Station at 20:00. I am quite full.When my stomach is full, I also feel a sense of mental satisfaction. Since this was the end of the trip, the trip itself also ended with great satisfaction. Ah, it was fun.
In the morning, I rode the latest model Shinkansen, and in the afternoon, I rode the JNR-era KiHa 40 series diesel train. It was a day where I enjoyed the polar opposite differences, not just in the vehicles, but also in how I spent my time on board. However, they both share the common trait of providing the utmost hospitality to their passengers.
Comparing rides like this was very interesting, so I would definitely recommend it to everyone.





