Introductory Course: 3 Reasons Why Kiyoken Became the Representative of Yokohama and Shumai

Why is Kiyoken a symbolic presence in Yokohama? There are too many reasons to list, but as an introductory course, I have dared to organize them into three major points.

1. Shumai originated in Yokohama in the first place
I have traveled all over Japan eating and researching its history and origins, and it is highly likely that Yokohama was the first place in Japan where shumai became commonly eaten.
In Yokohama, the center of the country's opening in the Edo period, a foreign settlement was established, and a Chinese residential area was also formed for those doing business there. It is believed that Chinese restaurants began to open there, mainly for Chinese people, and that shumai existed within them.

2. Founded as a kiosk at Yokohama Station
Meanwhile, Kiyoken was founded in 1908 (Meiji 41) as a kiosk inside Yokohama Station. At the time of its opening, Yokohama Station itself was located around the current Sakuragicho area, and the Kiyoken store was born there. By the way, the famous "Shumai" was not sold from the beginning; they sold drinks like milk and cider, mochi, and sushi.

3. Turning a Chinatown staple into a signature dish
The "Siumai" was born when the first president, Mokichi Nonami, took notice of shumai, which was becoming a staple souvenir and appetizer at Chinese restaurants in Yokohama. To create a shumai that could be bought at Yokohama Station and eaten on the train while "still delicious even when cold," he scouted Wu Yusun, a chef in Nankinmachi at the time, to develop it. In 1928 (Showa 3), the "Traditional Siumai," a signature product that continues to this day, was completed. It is said that the deliberate spelling of "Siumai" (instead of the standard "Shumai") was based on the first president's pronunciation (or accent?) and the intonation of the Chinese language.

Michikusa Expert

Kiyoken's "Shiumai" will celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2028! Over the years, it has become a hot topic, with station vendors known as "Shiumai Girls" appearing in novels and films, and the original soy sauce container "Hyo-chan" gaining popularity among collectors, all of which have helped boost the popularity of "Shiumai."

Beginner Level: Reasons for the popularity of "Traditional Siumai"

"Traditional Siumai" is still sold at Kiyoken stores today. Furthermore, the ingredients used have not changed since the initial development, meaning the taste from the time of the company's founding continues to be supported today.

The ingredients are only pork, onion, green peas, dried scallop, salt, pepper, sugar, starch, and the wheat for the wrapper. In fact, it is surprisingly little known that it contains no preservatives.

As for the flavor profile, mixing pork and dried scallop made it possible for it to be "delicious even when cold." The reason for this is that at the time, Kiyoken had no choice but to have customers eat pre-cooked items inside the train, but the shumai served in Nankinmachi was typically served piping hot, and its flavor would be halved once it cooled down. It is said that it took a year of development to complete it in order to maintain that deliciousness.

In addition, the size, which allows even women and children to eat it in one bite, is another feature. The shumai at Chinese restaurants like those in Nankinmachi at the time of development were likely twice as large, but it is said that they were made smaller out of consideration for eating them on shaky trains without spilling.

Michikusa Expert

My analysis is that the pursuit of making it "delicious even when cold" led to the use of dried scallop adductor muscle, and this umami, which is familiar to Japanese people, has become a nostalgic flavor that makes people "want to eat it again," serving as a factor supporting its popularity today.

Intermediate Level: The existence of the "Siumai Bento," the king of the ekiben world

The "Siumai Bento" is a popular product that symbolizes Kiyoken and stands shoulder-to-shoulder with "Traditional Siumai." Sales reach approximately 30,000 units per day, and up to 40,000 at peak times, a number that is overwhelmingly the top among ekiben nationwide. It is truly the king of the ekiben world.

In the bento box made of thin wood shavings, five pieces of "traditional shumai" are lined up in the center. Above them, from left to right, are shredded ginger, shredded kelp, fried chicken, rolled omelet, apricot, fish cake, soy-marinated grilled tuna, and diced simmered bamboo shoots as side dishes. Below the shumai, eight bale-shaped rice balls are arranged, garnished with black sesame seeds and a pickled green plum.

There are various reasons for its popularity, but personally, I believe it comes down to it being the "learning from the past" of the ekiben (station bento) world. Since its birth in 1954 (Showa 29), the main composition has remained unchanged despite minor updates. Each ingredient is an extremely classic Japanese side dish, which could be seen as plain (including the shumai itself), but they are all flavors that have long been familiar to Japanese people. Their deliciousness has not faded over time, and in fact, people of all ages, including the younger generation, never tire of them. Much like the "traditional shumai," it might be a bento that makes you want to eat it again and again. Buying one as a "Yokohama souvenir" on your way home with such thoughts in mind is also a refined way to enjoy Kiyoken.

Michikusa Expert

In fact, the first ekiben (station bento) Kiyoken sold before the "Shiumai Bento" was "Yakimeshi" (fried rice). It is a product that can be called the predecessor to our other signature bento, the "Yokohama Chahan." It is said that the "Shiumai Bento" was later created by returning to the roots of a station bento shop and using the makunouchi bento as a motif.

Advanced Level: Kiyoken flavors you can only taste in Yokohama

In Japan, Kiyoken products can be purchased mainly in Yokohama and throughout Kanagawa Prefecture, as well as in Tokyo, Saitama, Chiba, and Shizuoka (they are also available in Taiwan). While there is also mail order, these are basically frozen or chilled products. Ideally, you should try the room-temperature items that are meant to be eaten on the same day.
Among them, there are Kiyoken flavors that can only be tasted in Yokohama. To get to know Kiyoken even better, please be sure to include them in your Yokohama travel itinerary.

Michikusa Expert

Kiyoken shops in the Yokohama area are also not to be underestimated. In particular, the "Yokohama Station Central Store" and the "Shin-Yokohama Station Cubic Plaza Shinkansen West Gate Store" are well-stocked with products that cannot be bought in other prefectures. We especially recommend the "Seasonal Shiumai," where the ingredients change with the seasons. It is also recommended as a Yokohama souvenir that lets you feel the season.

Conclusion: Yokohama's shumai is not just about Kiyoken

I have quickly summarized the connection between food and culture in Yokohama and Kiyoken, as well as how to enjoy Kiyoken in Yokohama, but as a shumai researcher, the last thing I want to say is that "Yokohama's shumai is not just about Kiyoken."

As mentioned earlier, Yokohama is the birthplace of Japanese shumai culture, and there is a history of shumai being enjoyed in Nankin-machi and the surrounding Yokohama area even before Kiyoken started selling it. Shops that served shumai before Kiyoken still exist today, and if you want to have a more advanced Yokohama trip, I highly recommend keeping them in mind as destinations.

At the same time, tasting shumai other than Kiyoken's will allow you to understand the value of Kiyoken even more deeply. They are an entity that continues to promote shumai culture both outside of Yokohama and in the modern day, while protecting the basic taste that has lasted for 100 years. As I put this article together, I am once again reflecting on how amazing they are.

This concludes the Kiyoken lecture by a shumai researcher. However, there is still so much more I want to share, so there might be an opportunity for a future lecture. Until then, please visit Yokohama at least once to deepen your knowledge and love for Kiyoken and shumai.

A base for your shumai trip! Two "OMO by Hoshino Resorts" to fully enjoy Yokohama

Introducing exciting "city-center" hotels that serve as the perfect base for a "Yokohama Shumai Trip" to visit the Kiyoken main store and Chinatown.

[For an active city-walking trip, choose "OMO7 Yokohama"]
Located right in front of JR Kannai Station. With Chinatown and the Noge area within walking distance, it is the perfect base for comparing shumai at "Junkai-kaku" or going bar-hopping.

[For a trip enjoying night views and time in your room, choose "OMO5 Yokohama Bashamichi"]
A high-rise location with a panoramic view of Minato Mirai. It is perfect for a luxurious night in, where you can bring back takeout shumai or bento boxes and enjoy them while gazing at the night view of the port town.

Why not enjoy a shumai tour at these two "OMO by Hoshino Resorts" facilities?