Evolving natural shaved ice, including local specialties and limited-time offers

About a 15-minute walk from Tobu Railway's Shimo-Imaichi Station, in an area that once flourished as the Imaichi-juku post town on the Nikko Kaido road, lies "Shogetsu Himuro," a natural ice wholesaler founded in 1894. Travelers visit constantly because they can enjoy natural shaved ice there all year round.

Among the many items on the menu, the one that splits popularity with others is this: the "Fresh Strawberry Premium." Tochigi is a strawberry kingdom that boasts the highest production volume in Japan. They use plenty of sweet, fragrant, fresh local strawberries in both the sauce and the filling.

The other is the "Mero-Mero Melon." This item uses half of a seasonal melon, with the seeds scooped out to serve as the bowl. You won't get tired of eating it until the very last bite. Your mouth won't get too cold, either. Apparently, this is a feat only possible with natural ice.

What makes natural ice different from regular ice?

To begin with, what exactly is natural ice?
We asked Masao Yoshishara (nicknamed "Masa-san"), the fourth-generation owner of "Shogetsu Himuro."

"Unlike ice from a freezer that freezes rapidly, natural ice is made by freezing slowly using the cold of midwinter. After drawing mountain spring water into the ice pond, it takes about two weeks for hard, natural ice with few impurities to be born."

I see. High purity equals hard ice, which is why it doesn't melt easily even when shaved finely, resulting in that fluffy texture. The work relies heavily on cleaning and environmental maintenance, not just during the ice-making season, but throughout the rest of the year as well. After all, you are freezing and tasting nature just as it is!

Shaved ice professionals gather where natural ice is born

Early February 2018. I was able to witness the harvesting of natural ice. I headed to Shirasawa Pond, a little over 10 minutes by car from the main store. A large ice pond (54m long x 22m wide) spread out in a quiet, mountainous area, and the entire surface had frozen over. It is located in the shadow of a mountain where it receives no direct sunlight even on clear days, and the stone walls on the mountainside, which were hand-stacked by the first generation in the Meiji era, are still in active use.

After pouring clear mountain spring water into the approximately 330-tsubo ice pond and waiting about two weeks, it is time to harvest once the ice reaches a thickness of about 13 to 15 cm. On the day, owners of shaved ice shops in the metropolitan area who love Shogetsu Himuro's natural ice came to help.
"Knowing the roots of the ice we serve in our shops gives us peace of mind, and our customers are happy about it too," they said proudly.

We move an electric ice cutter along the vertical and horizontal lines drawn on the surface of the ice to cut it into pieces. The lifted ice is then placed on bamboo rails and transported by sliding it manually—a feat of strength. Using a tool called a "tobiguchi" with a hook-shaped tip to pull the ice along, we line it up in the ice storage room in a continuous workflow. Each block of ice weighs about 40kg, and one block can yield 10 to 12 "kanme" (approx. 3.75kg each) of block ice. The annual production is about 5,500 blocks (220 tons).

The single-story wooden ice storage room is an antique that has existed since before the war. Cypress, which is less prone to warping, is used for the pillars, and chestnut, which is resistant to water, is used for the interior, while cypress sawdust is sprinkled over the ice as a coolant. The ice in the storage room lasts until summer without melting, and I am constantly impressed by the wisdom of our predecessors.
"The basics of making natural ice haven't changed since the Meiji era. That's why we can still use the facilities and old tools that the first generation worked on," says Masa-san.

A souvenir for adults! Enjoy it on the rocks at home

Natural ice is said to have appeared even in the Heian period's "The Pillow Book." With the introduction of mechanical ice making from overseas in the early Meiji era, the number of ice breweries plummeted, peaking in the Taisho era, making it a rare sight today.

Currently, there are only seven producers of natural ice in Japan (in Nikko City, Tochigi Prefecture; Karuizawa Town, Nagano Prefecture; Nagatoro Town, Saitama Prefecture; Hokuto City, Yamanashi Prefecture; and Kawaguchiko Town, Yamanashi Prefecture). Of these, three are located in Nikko City, and "Shogetsu Himuro" is the oldest. With the unprecedented boom in natural ice, the demand for high-quality natural ice continues to grow.
"However, because it is handmade, there is a limit to production. I want to sell this rare natural ice to people who will use it with care," says Masa-san.

"I like face-to-face transactions," he says, so they do not sell online and only sell at the storefront. They sell block ice by the 'kanme' (a traditional unit of weight). They also offer rock ice and shaved ice for takeout. Buying natural ice as a travel souvenir and enjoying it with whiskey on the rocks at home is also wonderful.

The evolution of natural shaved ice. Shaved ice is no longer just for summer.
"Nikko natural shaved ice is a time capsule. You can enjoy the delicious natural ice created by Nikko's winter all year round," says Masa-san. How romantic! Please be sure to visit Nikko, the town of natural ice.

Shogetsu Himuro Main Store

• 379 Imaichi, Nikko City, Tochigi Prefecture MAP
• 6-minute walk from Imaichi Station, 9-minute walk from Shimo-Imaichi Station
• 11:00–16:00 *Subject to change depending on the season and weather
• Mondays (Open if it is a public holiday, closed the following day) *Subject to change depending on the season and weather
• 0288-21-0162
• Available