Let's take a train trip! From Beppu to Hakata by

Hello, I am "Yasukon", a cartoonist & writer.
I'm taking the "Aru Train" to Kyushu, followed by a sightseeing tour of Beppu and then the "Yufuin-no-mori". This is another very popular sightseeing train. If you want to have a meal, it is better to prepare it in advance or buy a bento box lunch, snacks, or light meals from the train.

I always reserve a boxed lunch in advance to pick up on board. What a surprise, they also sell draft beer.

Michikusa experts who wrote this article

  • Travels and draws (writes)! Manga Artist & Writer

    Yasukon

    Likes to travel by train alone, enjoying ekiben, ekisoba, hot springs, and sake. He has eaten more than 2,500 ekiben. He is the author of "Hitori ningo fun tetsudo tabi ekiben meguri-hen" (Railroad Journey by Hitori: Ekiben Tour Arc) published by Genkosha. His manga "Neko ni Ekiben" (Cat and Station Bento) is serialized in "Ryoko Yomiuri" (Travel Yomiuri).

    Michikusa's
    guru
 Mountains seen from the bus
Mountains seen from the bus

Since I was staying in Yufuin, I headed to Beppu first. Normally I traveled via Oita by train, but this time I took the bus. Actually, buses are easier because there are no transfers.
In addition, the bus goes to the trailhead of Mt. Yufudake, so you can see the powerful Mt. Yufudake up close.

 Beppu station and the hand bath
Beppu station and the hand bath

You have arrived at Beppu Station. There is a free hand bath in front of the station.
Leave your luggage in a locker and take a bus to Kannawa. There are many hot spring resorts and sightseeing spots in Beppu, but Kannawa is suitable for beginners because you can enjoy many things in a small area. Bus service to Kannawa is frequent.

Michikusa Gurus

There is a tourist information center right in front of the bus stop at Kannawa, so it is a good idea to ask for a map or other information there.

 Putting ingredients into the jigoku kettle at
Putting ingredients into the jigoku kettle at "Jigokuso Kobo Kannushi Kannawa" (Hell Steam Steaming Studio)

A three-minute walk from the bus stop takes you to "Jigokumushi Kobo Kannawa" (Hell Steam Steam Studio). I had been here before. When it is crowded, there is a sign that says "60 minutes wait".
First, you choose the menu you want to eat and buy a meal ticket. When the ingredients are prepared, they are put into the "jigoku kettle" to be steamed. A jigokugama is a cauldron built to steam the food with hot spring steam from below. You can ask the restaurant to put the food in the kettle, or you can experience it yourself. Once you fill the pot, you will be given a timer and wait 15 minutes until it is steamed.

 Jigokumushi
Jigokumushi "Enchanting One Set

Here is the finished steamed dish! The colors are so vivid. I ate it with free ponzu (Japanese sauce) and salt. Cheese and basil sauces are available with a separate meal ticket. It is healthy and tastes even better when you think it was steamed by the steam from the natural hot spring.
By the way, non-alcoholic beer is sold in the vending machine, but no alcohol is available.

 Cobalt Blue Sea Hell
Cobalt Blue Sea Hell

With our stomachs full, let's go for a walk and walk up the hill for about 10 minutes to the famous "Umi-Jigoku" (sea hell). This cobalt blue has always been my favorite color. This color is caused by iron sulfate, a component of hot springs, dissolving into the water. In Beppu, you can actually bathe in hot springs of this color.

 Jigoku Steamed Pudding
Jigoku Steamed Pudding

After enjoying Umi-Jigoku, we went to Cafeteria UMI outside and ate "Jigoku-Mushi Pudding" (steamed pudding made from steaming hot spring water). This pudding keeps for only 20 minutes at room temperature, which means you have to eat it right then and there. In other words, you have to eat it right then and there.
The pudding had a nice eggy and buttery flavor that was wonderfully balanced with the slightly bitter caramel. I would definitely like to try it again.

Michikusa Gurus

You can buy "jigoku-mushi pudding" at many places in Beppu, so it might be fun to compare the different types of pudding!

 Beppu is a city of steam
Beppu is a city of steam

Walking around Kannawa, I was surprised to see steam gushing out from roadside ditches and other places. This is evidence of the abundance of hot spring water. The cooler the temperature, the more visible it is. There are also many stand-by hot springs in this area.
If you go up to the higher ground, you can see steam coming out of various parts of the city. This is a sight that can only be seen in Beppu, a city of hot springs.

 Exterior of Kannawa Mushi-yu
Exterior of Kannawa Mushi-yu

When your stomach has settled down, head for Kannawa Mushi-yu. Kannawa Mushi-yu is a steam bath with a stone chamber filled with hot spring steam and a layer of medicinal herbs called sekishou. I had been to this one before.

After changing into a yukata (Japanese bathrobe), visitors enter the stone chamber and lie down. The good aroma of the iris will slowly warm your body for 8 minutes. After getting out of the bath, we finished by sweating it off in the hot spring. It is recommended as it refreshes your mind.
Now, we will take the bus back to Beppu Station, where we will stay today.

Michikusa Gurus

You will feel like Heidi, the girl from the Alps, when you lie down on the haystacks in the narrow space.

 Showa-era Beppu Tower
Showa-era Beppu Tower

The next day in Beppu was also clear and sunny! The weather was so fine that I decided to go up to Beppu Tower. Beppu Tower is the third 100-meter high TV tower in Japan. Don't you think its design resembles Tokyo Tower? Yes, this is the same as Tokyo Tower, designed by Mr. Tanaka Naito, who is called "Doctor of Towers. Mr. Tanaka Naito, who is known as the "Tower Doctor," designed the tower.

 View from the observatory
View from the observatory

The view from the observatory of Beppu Tower is of the sea and mountains. There are many hotels and you can see how Beppu is a thriving hot spring resort. I have been to Beppu many times, but when I realized that there are many hot springs in Beppu that I have not yet visited, I felt that I must come back again! I renewed my determination to visit again.

Michikusa Gurus

There are many hot springs within walking distance from Beppu Station, including the famous Takegawara hot spring.

 Sightseeing train
Sightseeing train "Yufuin no Mori I" (Photo: Masami Tsubouchi)

Today, I will be taking the Yufuin-no-mori sightseeing train from Beppu to Hakata Station. It has been a while since I last took this train, so I was looking forward to it.
Yufuin-no Mori has two trains, "I" and "III," and I will be riding on the "I" train. Normally, Yufuin no Mori runs between Yufuin and Hakata, but on the days when it makes three round trips a day, only the second trains, No. 3 and 4, run between Beppu and Hakata.

 Yufuin-no Mori
Yufuin-no Mori" at the platform of Beppu Station

The station sign at Beppu Station has a cute hot spring symbol on it. The Yufuin-no Mori train stops at the platform, and can you see the high position of the windows? This is called a high-decker structure, which means that the seats are 1.7 meters higher than those of a regular train. This means that it is that much easier to see the scenery.

 Inside car No. 4, where my seat is located
Inside car No. 4, where my seat is located

Yufuin-no Mori, with its wood, green, and gold color scheme, exudes an imposing, well-established sense of luxury. Yufuin-no Mori I is the oldest JR Kyushu sightseeing train in operation. The seats are soft and comfortable.

 The view from the driver's side at the front of Car 1
The view from the driver's side at the front of Car 1

Actually, I wanted to get a seat at the front of the train where I could enjoy the front view, but I couldn't get it due to the popularity of . I have ridden Yufuin no Mori several times, but the only time I was able to get that seat was the first time I rode the train. Now it is a platinum ticket.

 Salon space (free space) in Car 3
Salon space (free space) in Car 3

Real wood is used here and there inside the train. Usually, wood is avoided in railroad cars for fear of fire, but the use of wood gives the interior a warm feeling.

Michikusa Gurus

Suitcases and large luggage can be left at the end of the train. Coats and other items can be placed on the overhead racks.

 Buffet in Car 2
Buffet in Car 2

We headed for the buffet (store), looking out at the sea on our left for a while. Since the train is open until Yufuin Station, I pick up the boxed lunch I reserved while I am there.
There are also other sweets available in limited quantities, so if there is something you are looking for, it is best to get there early.

 Yufuin Wappa
Yufuin Wappa" (Chuo Ken)

The bento I reserved is "Yufuin Wappa.
Four kinds of cute Temari rice balls are available: cod roe, takana, nozawana, and yukari. The side dishes include fried Bungo chicken kabosu, egg omelet made from Kyushu eggs, and marinated broccoli and Oita ham.

 Draft Ebisu beer and sausages
Draft Ebisu beer and sausages

In addition, draft beer and sausages were added as snacks. Only Yufuin no Mori I has a draft beer server. Yufuin no Mori III does not have one. The sausage I bought was "Oita Crown Jidori Sausage". It is nice to be able to eat local food easily.

Michikusa Gurus

The draft beer server is one of the reasons we like the Isei.

 Mt. Yufudake seen from the rear view
Mt. Yufudake seen from the rear view

The train makes a big turn at Yufuin Station, so Mt. Yufuin can be viewed from various angles. I was in the last car, No. 4, so after passing Yufuin Station, I said goodbye to Yufuin-dake, which was leaving behind me.

 Jion Falls, where there is a legend of a dragon
Jion Falls, where there is a legend of a dragon

At Bungomori Station, I passed the downbound Yufuin-no Mori III. When I waved to them, some of them looked back at me over there as well. Encounters like this are fun.
We will also see from the train window the "Ci En Waterfall," which is said to have a legend of a dragon. A crew member guided us around the sights, and the train slowed down so we could take some great pictures.

 Ice cream and Yufuin Cider
Ice cream and Yufuin Cider

The temperature was high that day, and it became completely hot when I was soaking up the sun through the window. Just then, an ice cream vendor arrived. Perfect timing!
I bought "our egg ice cream" and "Yufuin Cider. I was attracted to the Yufuin Cider because of the Yufuin Forest logo-like letters and colors, and I liked the Yufuin Forest picture on the lid of the ice cream.

As a railroad fan, I often decide based on whether or not the picture has a railroad in it, rather than the flavor I want to eat.

 Yufuin no Mori I arriving at Hakata Station
Yufuin no Mori I arriving at Hakata Station

Our enjoyable three-and-a-half-hour trip finally comes to an end. We arrived at Hakata Station. From Yufuin, it takes a little over two hours to get to Hakata, but from Beppu, it is a longer ride. I am the type of person who likes to stay on the train as long as possible.

Since Yufuin-no Mori is a limited express, many people choose it as a means of transportation. In my case, I want to enjoy the train's design, food, scenery, and everything else to the fullest. I believe that is the best part of riding a sightseeing train.

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