1. Sightseeing in the city of Beppu

Since I was staying in Yufuin, I headed to Beppu first. I usually travel by train via Oita, but this time I took the bus. Actually, the bus is easier because there are no transfers.
Furthermore, the bus goes to the Yufudake trailhead, so you can see the impressive Mount Yufu up close.

I arrived at Beppu Station. There is a free hand bath in front of the station.
I left my luggage in a locker and took a bus to Kannawa. Beppu has many hot spring areas and tourist spots, but Kannawa is great for beginners as you can enjoy a lot within a small area. Bus service to Kannawa is frequent.

Michikusa Expert

There is a tourist information center right in front of the Kannawa bus stop, so it is a good idea to get a map and other information there.

2. Experience various hells

I walked 3 minutes from the bus stop to "Jigoku Mushi Kobo Kannawa." I had been here before. When it's crowded, you might see signs saying there's a 60-minute wait.
First, you choose the menu you want and buy a meal ticket. Once the ingredients are prepared, you put them into the "Jigoku-gama" (hell steamer) to steam. The Jigoku-gama is a kiln built to be steamed by hot spring steam from below. You can ask the staff to put them in for you, or you can try it yourself. Once you put them in, you are given a timer and wait 15 minutes for them to steam.

Here is the finished Jigoku-mushi (hell-steamed) dish! The colors are vivid. I ate it with free ponzu sauce and salt. You can enjoy cheese, basil sauce, and more by purchasing separate tickets. It's healthy, and knowing it was steamed with natural hot spring steam makes it taste even better.
By the way, while non-alcoholic beer is sold in vending machines, alcoholic beverages are not.

Now that I'm full, let's go for a walk. I'll head up the hill for about 10 minutes to the famous "Umi Jigoku" (Sea Hell). This cobalt blue has always been my favorite color. It looks this way because of the iron sulfate dissolved in the hot spring water. In Beppu, you can actually bathe in hot springs with this color.

After enjoying Umi Jigoku, I ate a "Jigoku-mushi pudding" (hell-steamed pudding) at the "Cafeteria UMI" outside. Believe it or not, this pudding only lasts for 20 minutes at room temperature. In other words, you have to eat it right there on the spot.
The pudding had just the right amount of egg and butter flavor, and the balance with the bittersweet caramel was wonderful. I definitely want to eat this again.

Michikusa Expert

"Jigoku-mushi Pudding" (hell-steamed pudding) is sold all over Beppu, so it might be fun to compare different ones!

3. The city steamed by vapor and myself

Walking around Kannawa, you'll be surprised to see steam billowing out from places like the gutters along the road. It's proof of the abundant hot spring water. It's more visible when the temperature is low. There are also many day-trip hot springs in this area.
When you go up to higher ground, you can see steam rising from various places all over the town. It's a sight unique to Beppu, the city of hot springs.

Once my stomach settled, I headed to "Kannawa Mushiyu." Kannawa Mushiyu is a steam bath where you enter a stone chamber filled with hot spring steam and lined with medicinal herbs called sekisho (Japanese sweet flag). I had been here before as well.

I changed into a yukata, entered the stone chamber, and lay down. Surrounded by the pleasant scent of the sekisho, my body was gradually warmed over the course of 8 minutes. After coming out, I rinsed off the sweat in the hot spring, and that was it. It's refreshing and I highly recommend it.
Now, I'll take the bus back toward Beppu Station, where my accommodation for tonight is located.

Michikusa Expert

Lying down on dried grass (calamus) in a small space will make you feel like Heidi from the Alps♪

4. View the city of Beppu from Beppu Tower

The next day in Beppu was also clear! The weather was so nice that I decided to go up the "Beppu Tower." Beppu Tower is a 100-meter-tall TV tower, the third one built in Japan. Don't you think the design looks similar to Tokyo Tower? That's right, it was designed by the same person as Tokyo Tower, known as the "Dr. of Towers"It was designed by Tachu Naito.

The view from the Beppu Tower observation deck includes the sea and the mountains. You can see many hotels and get a sense of how it thrives as a hot spring resort. I have been to Beppu many times, but thinking about how many hot springs there are that I haven't entered yet makes me resolve to come back again!

Michikusa Expert

Within walking distance from Beppu Station, there are many day-trip hot springs, including the famous Takegawara Onsen.

5. Ride the sightseeing train "Yufuin no Mori"

Now, today I will be riding the sightseeing train "Yufuin no Mori" from Beppu Station to Hakata Station. I have been looking forward to this as it has been a while since I last rode it.
There are two sets of Yufuin no Mori trains, the "I" and the "III," and the one I am riding this time is the "I." Normally, the Yufuin no Mori runs between Yufuin and Hakata, but on days when it operates three round trips a day, only the second service, trains 3 and 4, runs between Beppu and Hakata.

The station sign at Beppu Station is cute with a hot spring mark on it. And can you see the Yufuin no Mori train stopped at the platform, with its windows positioned high up? This is called a high-decker structure, and the seats are 1.7 meters high, which is higher than regular trains. In other words, it makes the scenery that much easier to see.

Composed of wood, green, and gold, the Yufuin no Mori exudes the dignified luxury of a long-established brand. The "Yufuin no Mori I" is the oldest among the JR Kyushu sightseeing trains currently in operation. The seats are plush and comfortable to sit in.

Actually, I wanted to get the front seat where you can enjoy the forward view, but it was popular and I couldn't get it. I have ridden the Yufuin no Mori several times, but I was only able to get that seat the first time I rode it. It is now a platinum ticket.

Real wood is used throughout the interior of the train. Usually, railway cars avoid using wood due to concerns about fire, but by daring to use it, the interior has a warm feel.

Michikusa Expert

There is a storage area for suitcases and large luggage at the end of the train car. Coats and similar items can be placed on the overhead racks.

6. Pick up a bento box at the buffet

While gazing at the sea on my left for a while, I headed to the buffet (shop). The train is empty until Yufuin Station, so I will pick up the bento I reserved while I have the chance.
There are also limited-edition sweets and other items, so if there is something you have your eye on, it is best to go early.

The bento I reserved was the "Yufuin Wappa."
The four adorable temari rice balls come in flavors of spicy cod roe, takana mustard greens, nozawana greens, and yukari (shiso). The side dishes include Bungo chicken karaage with kabosu citrus, a rolled omelet made with eggs from Kyushu, and a marinated salad of broccoli and prosciutto from Oita Prefecture.

I also added a draft beer and some sausages as a snack. Only the Yufuin no Mori I features a draft beer server; the III does not. The sausages I bought were "Oita Kanjidori Chicken Sausages." It's great to be able to easily enjoy local products.

Michikusa Expert

The fact that there is a draft beer server is also one of the reasons why I like the 1st generation.

7. Enjoy the scenery from the train window

The train makes a wide curve at Yufuin Station, allowing you to view Mount Yufu from various angles. Since I was in the last car, Car 4, I bid farewell to Mount Yufu as it receded behind us after we passed Yufuin Station.

At Bungo-Mori Station, we passed the outbound Yufuin no Mori III. When I waved, someone on the other train waved back. These kinds of encounters are delightful.
We also viewed the "Jion no Taki Falls," which is said to have a dragon legend, from the train window. The crew announced the highlight, and the train slowed down, so I was able to take perfect photos.

It was a hot day, and I got quite warm basking in the sun coming through the window. Just then, the ice cream cart came by. Perfect timing!
I bought "Uchi no Tamago Ice Cream" and "Yufuin Cider." I was drawn to the Yufuin Cider by its logo font and colors, which resemble the Yufuin no Mori branding, and I liked that the ice cream lid featured an illustration of the Yufuin no Mori train.

As a rail fan, I often decide what to buy based on whether it features a train design rather than the flavor I want to eat.

My fun three-and-a-half-hour journey finally came to an end as we arrived at Hakata Station. It takes just over two hours to get to Hakata from Yufuin, but you can ride for longer if you start from Beppu. I'm the type who wants to stay on the train as long as possible.

Since the Yufuin no Mori is a limited express train, many people choose it as a means of transportation. In my case, I want to fully enjoy the train's design, the food, and the scenery. I believe that is the true pleasure of riding a sightseeing train.