Let's take a train trip! Take a Gilded Luxury Sightseeing Train

Hello, I am "Yasukon", a cartoonist & writer.

Many people may be interested in "sightseeing trains," although a full-fledged train trip seems difficult. Sightseeing trains are trains that are meant to be ridden. There are now many trains running throughout Japan with elaborate exteriors and interiors, meals, fun events on board, and many other creative ideas.

Michikusa experts who wrote this article

  • Travels and draws (writes)! Manga Artist & Writer

    Yasukon

    Likes to travel by train alone, enjoying ekiben, ekisoba, hot springs, and sake. He has eaten more than 2,500 ekiben. He is the author of "Hitori ningo fun tetsudo tabi ekiben meguri-hen" (Railroad Journey by Hitori: Ekiben Tour Arc) published by Genkosha. His manga "Neko ni Ekiben" (Cat and Station Bento) is serialized in "Ryoko Yomiuri" (Travel Yomiuri).

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 Aru Train shining in gold (Photo: Masami Tsubouchi)
Aru Train shining in gold (Photo: Masami Tsubouchi)

By the way, don't you think that you cannot ride a sightseeing train alone? In fact, most sightseeing trains can be taken by a single person. (Sometimes there are trains that are designed for two or more people.)

I first became a railroad fan because of my love for sleeper trains, but it was the sightseeing trains that next caught my interest. As the sleeper trains were coming to an end, at the same time, elaborate sightseeing trains were born all over the country. I love to eat, so how could I not fall in love with sightseeing trains that include meals?

 Aru Train stopping at Hakata Station
Aru Train stopping at Hakata Station

This time I visited Kyushu. All sightseeing trains in Kyushu are called D&S (Design & Story) trains, and many of them are unique in terms of the history (story) and elaborate interior (design) of the train line. I will travel around Kyushu on the "Aru Train," one of the most luxurious sightseeing trains in Kyushu.

After an early morning flight from Tokyo, we arrived at Hakata Station. From here, the "oru train" departs.
I took the Aru Train with a friend in October 2015, soon after it started operation. In fact, it was the first time for me to take a "sightseeing train with meals".
This time, I traveled alone. I am looking forward to seeing what kind of trip it will be.

Michikusa Gurus

Reservations for the Aru Train can be easily made through the website. If the sightseeing train is the purpose of your trip, make sure to hold reservations for the sightseeing train first, and then arrange other means of transportation.

 No. 1 car with table seats
No. 1 car with table seats

The Aru Train has arrived at the platform of Hakata Station. I have never seen a gold-colored train other than this one.
The first car has chairs, tables, and other furnishings, and the ceiling and floor are covered with intricate patterns. The interior of the first car looked like a high-class European Restaurant, which made me sigh and think, "This train is a moving piece of furniture.

 Private compartment car No. 2
Private compartment car No. 2

My seat was in a private compartment in Car 2. There are two private rooms (for one person) on each side of the window, and only one private room for one person. The door is blindfolded with Kumiko work.
Come to think of it, the first time I rode with a friend, we were also in a private room car. I think it is better to ride alone in a private room without worrying about the eyes of others.

 Yufuin-no Mori III designed by Mr. Mitooka (Photo: Masami Tsubouchi)
Yufuin-no Mori III designed by Mr. Mitooka (Photo: Masami Tsubouchi)

The train was designed by Eiji Mitooka of Dawn Design. Mr. Mitooka is in charge of most of JR Kyushu's sightseeing trains. Many of you may recognize his distinctive design.

 Crew ringing the bell to announce the departure of the train
Crew ringing the bell to announce the departure of the train

Now, the train is about to depart. The crew will ring the bell to let you know when the train is about to depart.
I remember how I felt 10 years ago when I wrote a comic strip about riding a certain train as if I were a "princess.

 Private room
Private room

Opening the Kumiko door, a luxurious room was revealed. These fabrics were also designed by Mr. Mitooka.
Once seated, you are asked whether you would like a welcome drink of mandarin orange juice or sparkling wine. On the table was a menu and a pamphlet about the producers of the dishes and ingredients, so we waited while reading them.

 Kumiko design
Kumiko design

By the way, the Kumiko can be held in place with a clasp like this. Each small item is very elaborate. Kumiko can be left open or closed. When they bring you your food, they will serve it open, so don't worry about it and relax.

Michikusa Gurus

It would be a waste if you don't walk around and look at the designs all over the train instead of staying in your seat.

 Appetizers and welcome drink
Appetizers and welcome drink

The first drinks were brought. I, of course, had sparkling wine. Aru Train's course meals change in spring, summer, fall, and winter, and this time it was the winter course.
The chef who is in charge of the course meal is Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa, owner of the restaurant "NARISAWA" in Minami Aoyama, Tokyo. He has been in charge of the cuisine since the restaurant started operating in the early days of Aru Train.

The appetizer that appeared shortly after was titled "Starry Night, Nagasaki Tuna and Flower Vegetable Salad with Caviar from Miyazaki Prefecture. The vegetables were cut out in the shape of cute stars, and the caviar shining between them looked like a starry sky. It was a shame to eat it all, I thought to myself!

 Feeling uplifted, I took a selfie
Feeling uplifted, I took a selfie

The dishes are served as a course, so they are brought to you at the right time. You can ask for drinks yourself or order them when the dishes arrive.
All drinks, both alcoholic and soft, are included in the price, so you can order as much as you want. Of course, only drink as much as you can.

 The kitchen is preparing food.
The kitchen is preparing food.

In the kitchen on the side of car 1, they were preparing the fish dish to be served next. On some trains, hot food is also served.
It is truly amazing that hot food can be served on a sightseeing train and on ceramic plates. There is not a big kitchen in the train, and can you imagine how difficult it is to use ceramic plates in a rocking train? I was impressed not only by the exterior and interior design, but also by this kind of thing.

 Bouillabaisse with saffron-scented fish from the seas around Kyushu in Taketa City, Oita Prefecture
Bouillabaisse with saffron-scented fish from the seas around Kyushu in Taketa City, Oita Prefecture

The next dish was fish. I ordered a glass of white wine to go with it. The pattern of the plate was reflected in the shadows below, which was beautiful.
The bouillabaisse sauce is made with fish entrails," the crew member told us. As in a regular Restaurant, the crew explained each dish as it was served. The sauce was rich but had a refreshing aftertaste! I wanted to have another serving.

 Crew pouring wine
Crew pouring wine

If you ask for a glass of wine, they will pour it into your glass on the spot like this. The glass has a certain train mark on it. The plates and cutlery are all handmade by producers in Kyushu.

Michikusa Gurus

The food is a delight to both look at and taste. This is the best part of a luxury sightseeing train trip.

 Tanushimaru Station
Tanushimaru Station

The train stops at Tanushimaru Station on the way. Everyone gets off the train here and strolls around the station. This station is a very unique station in the shape of a kappa. It looks like a kappa from both the front and platform sides.
This is because there is a "kappa legend" in this area. Statues of kappa have been installed everywhere in the town. I bought some "Kappa Ramen" as a souvenir at the station.

 Meat dish
Meat dish "Tender braised beef tongue with winter root vegetables

When we returned to the train, a meat dish was brought to us. The colorful vegetables hollowed out in circles were beautiful. The beef tongue was so tender that I could easily slice it with a spoon. The beef tongue had been stewed for four hours.
I think red wine would be the perfect accompaniment. We savored the time while eating and drinking slowly.

 Beautiful corridor with reflection
Beautiful corridor with reflection

There seemed to be a little time before dessert, so we went exploring the train. My favorite view of a certain train is the one reflected on the wall of car 1. The stained glass and the braid on the right side are reflected in the curved surface of the shiny wall on the left side. It's really beautiful. I take a picture of it every time I pass by.

 Stained glass windows were used in some trains of the time
Stained glass windows were used in some trains of the time

This train is actually based on a phantom luxury passenger car (commonly known as "Aru Train") that was ordered by the then Kyushu Railway Company from the United States in 1906, but was never given the chance to be put into service.

The model was later created by Shintaro Hara, who is known as the "God of Model Railroading. JR Kyushu Chairman Toshihiko Aoyagi, who saw the model at the Hara Model Railway Museum, was so impressed that he asked Eiji Mitooka to design and build the current "Aru Train.

 Main sweets
Main sweets

Now for dessert, "Fluffy Ricotta Pancakes filled with Fukuoka Prefecture Amaou Strawberries". The snow-shaped pie and powdered sugar remind one of a snowy landscape. The strawberries are sweet and the pancakes are not too sweet. I enjoyed it with coffee.

 Mini sweets Mont Blanc, chocolate monaka, and hanging sweet potato
Mini sweets Mont Blanc, chocolate monaka, and hanging sweet potato

On some trains, after dessert, mini-sweets are served. And then, a surprise.
It was a birthday celebration! Even a handwritten card. What a surprise!

Actually, when you apply for the service, there is a column in the remarks section where you can write if there is anything special you would like to celebrate. If you write your anniversary in the remarks column, they will offer this kind of service.
In my case, I did not write anything special, but they seemed to congratulate me after seeing my birth date entry. I was really happy because my birthday was a week ago.

 Taking a footbath at Yufuin Station
Taking a footbath at Yufuin Station

With a few last words, the train arrived at the last stop, Yufuin Station. The three-hour trip was now over. The magic of feeling like a princess is now lifted. Ah, it was fun.

There is a footbath at Yufuin Station, so I bought a footbath ticket at the station counter and went in. From the footbath, I could see a certain train parked there. I was immersed in the afterglow for a while. (The footbath is currently closed due to construction work on the station building; it is scheduled to open around winter 2026.)

 Mt. Yufu and the road leading to Yunotsubo Kaido
Mt. Yufu and the road leading to Yunotsubo Kaido

We left our luggage in the lockers at Yufuin Station and strolled down the Yunotsubo Kaido Road toward Mt. On the way, On the way, I bought a Yufuin Gold Award croquette. The croquettes had a nice black pepper flavor and a tender texture. In addition to this place, there are many other places to eat. Yunotsubo Kaido was crowded with many stores with long lines, especially with tourists from Taiwan.

 Kinrin-ko Lake in a water mirror
Kinrin-ko Lake in a water mirror

After a 40-minute walk, we arrived at Kinrin Lake. It was a beautiful sunny day and there was no wind, so the sky was reflected in the lake and it became a water mirror. As I stood gazing at the lake for a while, I noticed a little mist on the lake.
I once saw a beautiful morning fog at Kinrin Lake in Yufuin early in the morning in winter. Lake Kinrin is fed by hot springs, so the water temperature is high, and on days when the temperature is low, the difference in temperature causes fog, making it a famous sight. I was lucky to see it.

Now, we will go back the way we came and check in at an inn in Yufuin. Tomorrow we will head to Beppu.

The information in this article is current as of the date of the update. Please check before visiting as they are subject to change.