Michikusa Gurus
Who is Koizumi Yakumo, a great writer who loved Japan? A literary and historical tour in Matsue, the setting of the morning drama

Photo courtesy of Koizumi Yakumo Memorial Museum

Koizumi Yakumo (Lafcadio Hearn) is the author of "Kwaidan" (ghost stories), which includes "Hoichi the Earless" and "The Snow Woman". Why did Hearn, who was born in Greece and raised in Ireland, visit Japan and become the Japanese "Koizumi Yakumo"? The broadcast of a TV drama based on Yakumo and his wife, Setu, has brought his life into the spotlight.
Yakumo visited and moved to many places in Japan. Among them, Matsue City in Shimane Prefecture was the place where he was destined to meet Setsu and find beauty in the ancient Japanese customs and spirituality of the Japanese people.
How about a trip to Matsue, which Yakumo called "the capital of the land of the gods" and where his footprints remain strong, to visit places associated with him?

Born in Greece. After writing in the U.S., moved to Japan

 Yakumo was born to an Irish father and Greek mother. Photo shows him at age 39 (Photo courtesy of Koizumi Yakumo Memorial Museum).
Yakumo was born to an Irish father and Greek mother. Photo shows him at age 39 (Photo courtesy of Koizumi Yakumo Memorial Museum).

Koizumi Yakumo, born Patrick Lafcadio Hearn in 1850 on the Greek island of Lefkada and raised in Ireland, lost the sight in his left eye at the age of 16 in a school accident, and at 19 moved to America to pursue his career as a journalist.
While expanding his activities as a travel writer and translator, Yakumo became fascinated with Japanese culture through the World's Fair held in New Orleans and the English translation of "Kojiki," etc. In 1890, he arrived in Japan, which was his long-cherished dream.

Assigned to Matsue. Encounters Koizumi Setsu.

 Setsu at the age of 20. He was born into the Koizumi family, a prominent family in the Matsue domain. She was soon adopted by a relative of the Inagaki family, but later returned to the Koizumi family (photo courtesy of the Koizumi Yakumo Memorial Museum).
Setsu at the age of 20. He was born into the Koizumi family, a prominent family in the Matsue domain. She was soon adopted by a relative of the Inagaki family, but later returned to the Koizumi family (photo courtesy of the Koizumi Yakumo Memorial Museum).

After arriving in Japan, Yakumo was assigned as an English teacher at the Shimane Prefectural Junior High School and Normal School in Matsue. Koizumi Setsu was hired to take care of his personal needs. Setsu came to live and work at Yakumo's house, and the two eventually came to live together as husband and wife.
The "Herne language" was born from the language barrier between English and Japanese. Herun" is a term of endearment used by Matsue residents to call Yakumo "Herun-san," "Herun-sensei," and so on. The two men developed a strong bond through this unique language, which omits Japanese particles and uses a mixture of English and Japanese in word order.

Life in Matsue, the "Capital of the Land of the Gods.

 Yakumo's desk and chair. He was blind in his left eye and nearsighted in his right eye, so he wrote with his face close to his desk, which was custom-made to have a high back (photo courtesy of the Koizumi Yakumo Memorial Museum).
Yakumo's desk and chair. He was blind in his left eye and nearsighted in his right eye, so he wrote with his face close to his desk, which was custom-made to have a high back (photo courtesy of the Koizumi Yakumo Memorial Museum).

Yakumo was an English teacher in Matsue. Through interaction with her students and the people of the town, she discovered the appeal of the ancient Japanese customs, culture, and spirituality that remain in the land of eight million gods and goddesses.
He wrote about his day in Matsue in "The Capital of the Land of the Gods," a chapter of his first book after coming to Japan, "Unknown Faces of Japan. The book vividly depicts scenes of the castle town of Matsue, including its streets, the people of the city, nature, and living creatures, as well as legends, with great sensitivity.

Obtains Japanese citizenship at the age of 46. And to the birth of "Kwaidan

 A handwritten draft of a scene from
A handwritten draft of a scene from "Hoichi no Miminashi no Hanashi" from "Kwaidan" (photo courtesy of the Koizumi Yakumo Memorial Museum).

After leaving Matsue, where he lived for about one year and three months, Yakumo moved to Kumamoto, Kobe, and Tokyo, where he taught at Imperial University and Waseda University. The name "Yakumo" is said to be derived from "Yakumo tate," a Japanese word for "Izumo" in the oldest waka poem in Japan, which appears in the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters).

Blessed with three sons and a daughter, Yakumo introduced Japanese culture to the rest of the world through his various works until his death in 1904 at the age of 54. The source of his late masterpiece, "Kwaidan," was a collection of ancient Japanese folk tales and ghost stories told to Yakumo by Setsu, who loved stories. The ghost stories, which were created as "retellings" based on Yakumo's unique interpretations and expressions, are filled with a sense of awe, human emotion, sadness, and nostalgia amidst the horror, and leave a deep aftertaste as works of literature.
These ghost stories include "Hoichi without Ears," "Snow Woman," "Rorokurokubi," and "Mujina.
Yakumo and Setsu together spun a "ghost story" that is still read today as an immortal masterpiece known by all. 2.

Koizumi Yakumo Memorial Museum

 In the first exhibition room, Hearn's life is presented in chronological order (photo courtesy of the Koizumi Hearn Memorial Museum).
In the first exhibition room, Hearn's life is presented in chronological order (photo courtesy of the Koizumi Hearn Memorial Museum).

Located next to the former residence of Yakumo Koizumi, the memorial museum is headed by his great-grandson, Bon Koizumi. Based on the concept of Yakumo's open mind, the museum introduces his life and achievements through graphics and videos.
The museum houses and exhibits a collection of his personal belongings, including desks, chairs, clothing, and xeroxes, as well as his handwritten manuscripts, first editions, family photos, and other valuable items. If you are interested in Yakumo's works, please visit the library where his books and related publications are lined up. Take your time and immerse yourself in the world that Yakumo spun.

 Photo courtesy of Koizumi Yakumo Memorial Museum
Photo courtesy of Koizumi Yakumo Memorial Museum
Koizumi Yakumo Memorial Museum
  • Address 322 Okutani-cho, Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture MAP
  •  Direction Approx. 20 min. walk from Matsue Shinjiko Onsen Station on the Ichibata Line
    Approx. 10 min. by car from JR Matsue Station
  •   Direction 16 min. ride on the "Gurutto Matsue Lake Line Bus" from JR Matsue Station, a short walk from the "Koizumi Hearn Memorial Museum Mae" stop.
  •  Business hours 9:00 - 18:00, October - March: 17:00 (admission until 30 minutes before closing)
  •  Closed Open all year round (with several maintenance breaks each year)
  •  Admission Fee Adults 600 yen, elementary/junior high school students 300 yen, two-for-one ticket with the former residence of Hearn Koizumi 800 yen for adults, 400 yen for elementary/junior high school students
  •  TEL 0852-21-2147
  •  Parking None

Koizumi Yakumo's Former Residence

 Yakumo, dressed in traditional Japanese clothing, spent his days looking out over his garden. A replica of his favorite desk and chair are on display, and visitors can sit on them.
Yakumo, dressed in traditional Japanese clothing, spent his days looking out over his garden. A replica of his favorite desk and chair are on display, and visitors can sit on them.

Yakumo lived in Matsue for about one year and three months. The latter five months of his life were spent in the Negishi family's samurai residence, which is now open to the public as his former residence. Yakumo said that he wished to live in a samurai residence with a garden. In one of his books, "Japanese Gardens," he wrote about the beauty of the trees and stones and the fascination of the garden where insects and other creatures lurk. At the former residence, the beautiful garden and other places remind us of the time when Yakumo and Setsu lived there.

 Photo courtesy of Koizumi Yakumo Memorial Museum
Photo courtesy of Koizumi Yakumo Memorial Museum
Koizumi Yakumo's Former Residence
  • Address 315 Kitabori-cho, Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture MAP
  •  Direction Approx. 20 min. walk from Matsue Shinjiko Onsen Station on the Ichibata Line
    Approx. 10 min. by car from JR Matsue Station
  •   Direction 16 min. ride on the "Gurutto Matsue Lake Line Bus" from JR Matsue Station, a short walk from the "Koizumi Hearn Memorial Museum Mae" stop.
  •  Business hours 9:00 - 18:00, October - March: 17:00 (admission until 30 minutes before closing)
  •  Closed Open all year round (with several maintenance breaks each year)
  •  Admission Fee Adults 400 yen, elementary and junior high school students 200 yen, two-for-one ticket with Koizumi Hearn Memorial Museum 800 yen for adults, 400 yen for elementary and junior high school students
  •  TEL 0852-21-2147(Hearun Koizumi Memorial Hall)
  •  Parking None

Matsue Bridge

 The Matsue Ohashi Bridge, with its granite parapets adorned with gold gibos. It is the oldest and most famous of the four bridges spanning the Ohashi River.
The Matsue Ohashi Bridge, with its granite parapets adorned with gold gibos. It is the oldest and most famous of the four bridges spanning the Ohashi River.

This bridge spans the Ohashi River, which separates Matsue City from north to south, and was built in 1608 when Matsue Castle was constructed. The current bridge is the 17th generation, and is well known to citizens as a symbol of Matsue, the city of water.
The "Gensuke Memorial Monument" catches the eye at the south end of the bridge. Gensuke was used as a human sacrifice because of the difficulty of the initial construction work, and the bridge pier in the center was called "Gensuke Pillar". Yakumo wrote about this sad legend in "Unknown Faces of Japan.
In the same book, Yakumo also described the sound of clogs of people crossing the bridge as musical, like a grand ball, and unforgettable.

Matsue Bridge
  • Address Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture MAP
  •  Direction 15 min. walk from Matsue Shinjiko Onsen Station on the Ichibata Line
    12 min. walk or 4 min. drive from JR Matsue Station
  •  TEL 0852-27-5843(Matsue Tourist Association)
  •  Parking None

Matsue Castle

 The bridge is also called
The bridge is also called "Chidori-jo" (castle of staggered birds) because of its roof gable that resembles a staggered bird spreading its wings. The "Castle Festival" is held when the cherry blossoms are in bloom.

Yoshiharu Horio, the founder of the Matsue government, built the castle from 1607 to 1611. It is one of only 12 surviving castle keepers in Japan and is designated as a National Treasure. On the top floor, there is a watchtower with a 360-degree view of the city of Matsue and Lake Shinji.
Various stories about the construction of Matsue Castle remain. When the construction of the stone walls went wrong, a beautiful girl who could dance well was chosen to serve as a human pillar. Since then, Bon Odori dances have not been held near Matsue Castle because the castle would be shaken if there were Bon Odori dances held there.
In his book "Unknown Faces of Japan," Yakumo described Matsue Castle as a dragon made of a collection of bizarre things and mentioned the story of this girl.

Matsue Castle
  • Address 1-5 Tonomachi, Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture MAP
  •  Direction Approximately 16 minutes on foot from Matsue Shinjiko Onsen Station on the Ichibata Line
    Approximately 7 minutes from JR Matsue Station by car
  •   Direction About 10 minutes from JR Matsue Station by "Gurutto Matsue Lake Line Bus", about 2 minutes walk from "National Treasure Matsue Castle (Otemae)" stop
  •  Business hours Honmaru 8:00-18:30 (October to March: ~17:30),
    Tenshukaku: 8:30-18:00 (Oct-Mar: ~17:00) *Reception closes 30 minutes before closing.
  •  Closed No holidays
  •  Admission fee Adults 800 yen, elementary and junior high school students 400 yen
  •  TEL 0852-21-4030 (Matsue Castle Park Management Office)
  •  Parking Not available (use municipal Matsue Castle Ote-mae Parking Lot, etc.)

Fumonin Temple

 Matcha green tea and seasonal Japanese sweets are available at Kangetsuan, so it is recommended to enjoy a cup of tea while admiring the garden in each of the four seasons.
Matcha green tea and seasonal Japanese sweets are available at Kangetsuan, so it is recommended to enjoy a cup of tea while admiring the garden in each of the four seasons.

A temple of the Tendai sect, it was built around 1607-1611, when Matsue Castle and the castle town were constructed. The temple grounds are surrounded by an elegant garden with a pond called Shinji-ike.
The "Kangetsu-an" (a tea house) on the temple grounds is a tea house in the Hosokawa Sansai style, where Harusato Matsudaira, the seventh lord of the Matsudaira family of the Matsue Domain and a feudal lord tea master with the title of "Fumai" (a lord of tea ceremony), often enjoyed tea ceremonies. It is said that Yakumo also learned tea ceremony at Kangetsuan.
There is a legend that if one chants a song called "Kakitsubata" on the "Azuki Togi Bridge" in front of the Fumonin Temple, it is said to bring bad luck.

Fumonin Temple
  • Address 27 Kitada-cho, Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture MAP
  •  Direction Approximately 25 minutes on foot from Matsue Shinjiko Onsen Station on the Ichibata Line
    Approximately 7 minutes from JR Matsue Station by car
  •   Direction 14 minutes from JR Matsue Station by "Gurutto Matsue Lake Line Bus", about 7 minutes walk from Shiomi Nawate Bus Stop.
  •  Business hours Free to visit, Kangetsuan 8:00-16:00
  •  Closed Kangetsuan is open on Tuesdays.
  •  Admission Fee Kangetsuan 300 yen, 1,000 yen with green powdered tea
  •  TEL 0852-21-1095
  •  Parking Free of charge

Shiroyama Inari Shrine

Of the more than 2,000 stone foxes at the time, Yakumo's favorite was a pair in front of Zuijimon. Today, they are housed on the right side of the hall of worship (image material: PIXTA).
Of the more than 2,000 stone foxes at the time, Yakumo's favorite was a pair in front of Zuijimon. Today, they are housed on the right side of the hall of worship (image material: PIXTA).

Founded in 1638 by Naomasa Matsudaira, the first lord of the Matsue Domain Matsudaira family, the shrine's "Horanenya" ceremony held every 10 years is one of the three largest boat Shinto rituals in Japan, and the parade of about 100 boats is a spectacular sight.
Stone foxes of various shapes and sizes line the grounds of the shrine. It is said that Yakumo was attracted by the unique stone foxes and often visited the shrine.
Yakumo's book, "Unknown Faces of Japan," contains a legend about the shrine's founding. When Matsudaira Naomasa entered Matsue, a beautiful boy named Inari Shinzaemon appeared to him and told him that he would protect the castle from fire if he built a house for him. It is said that a shrine was built there, and numerous stone foxes still guard the shrine today.

 Image material: PIXTA
Image material: PIXTA
Shiroyama Inari Shrine
  • Address 477 Tonomachi, Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture MAP
  •  Direction Approx. 20 min. walk from Matsue Shinjiko Onsen Station on the Ichibata Line
    Approximately 7 minutes from JR Matsue Station by car
  •   Direction Approx. 10 min. ride on the "Gurutto Matsue Lake Line Bus" from JR Matsue Station, approx. 10 min. walk from the "National Treasure Matsue Castle (Otemae)" stop.
  •  Business Hours Free to visit
  •  TEL 0852-21-1389
  •  Parking Not available (use municipal Matsue Castle Ote-mae Parking Lot, etc.)

Ichirikido Kyoten Honten "Hearn's Yokan

 There are two types of yokan, beni and kogura, each priced at 1,080 yen. Since it contains more bean paste than modern yokan, it is softer and smoother to the palate.
There are two types of yokan, beni and kogura, each priced at 1,080 yen. Since it contains more bean paste than modern yokan, it is softer and smoother to the palate.

Along with Kyoto and Kanazawa, Matsue is famous as one of Japan's "Three Great Sweets Towns. The tea ceremony culture established by Matsudaira Jirigo (tea name: Fumai), the seventh lord of the Matsudaira family of the Matsue Domain, known as a feudal lord tea master, is still alive today. Ichirikido was founded in the Horeki era (1751-1764) of the Edo period (1603-1868), and has been a long-established confectionary shop serving the Matsue domain for generations since its foundation.
Yakumo, who was said to have had a sweet tooth, particularly enjoyed yokan, and even after moving to Tokyo, his wife Setsu would order it from Matsue. Hearn's Yokan" is a proudly reproduced product based on the recipe written by the sixth generation head of Ichirikido, in order to bring back the taste of those days.

Ichirikido Kyoten Honten
  • Address 53 Suetsugu Honmachi, Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture MAP
  •  Direction 15 min. walk from Matsue Shinjiko Onsen Station on the Ichibata Line
    15 minutes on foot or 5 minutes by car from JR Matsue Station
  •   Direction Approximately 7 minutes by "Gurutto Matsue Lake Line Bus", 5 minutes walk from Kyobashi stop
  •  Business hours 10:00 - 18:00, Sunday - 17:00
  •  Closed Thursdays
  •  TEL 0852-28-5300
  •  Parking No parking (use Kyoten Shopping Street Parking)

Hot spring ryokan "Hoshino Resorts KAI Tamatsukuri" KAI" is located in Tamatsukuri hot spring ryokan, which is said to be one of the oldest hot springs in Japan. The hotel offers a variety of activities including bathing in the outdoor hot spring baths in all Guest rooms, seafood from the San'in region, sake from Shimane, the birthplace of Japanese sake, and traditional Shimane culture and folk art. Come learn more about Yakumo and immerse yourself in his worldview.

Take a rickshaw tour of places associated with Yakumo

In the "Rickshaw Guided Tour," you will ride a rickshaw, which was a favorite of Hearn's, to Koizumi Hearn's former residence, Matsue Ohashi Bridge, the temple where his ghost stories were set, and other places associated with him. This private tour allows visitors to experience the scenery that Yakumo would have seen while being guided by a guide who knows Matsue inside and out.

Enjoy a ghost story while savoring the "Yakumo Sake Set

A fun evening event is the "Ghost Story Tea Room" held in the museum's tea room. First, there will be an explanation of Yakumo's life and the background of his writing "Kwaidan," followed by a reading of "The Snow Woman" and "Hoichi the Earless" with an original video presentation, inviting you into the world of the ghost stories spun by Yakumo.
Along with the masterpieces, visitors can enjoy "Yakumo-shigure," a Japanese confectionery that Yakumo enjoyed as a snack with his evening meal, and "Yakumo-shu Set," a set of Japanese sake. The Kiomishigure is a Hoshino Resorts KAI Tamatsukuri original that uses sake for the red bean paste. Three types of sake are available, including nigori sake. You can enjoy a gem of a story together with beautiful sake.

 Yakumo-shigure and 3 kinds of Japanese sake
Yakumo-shigure and 3 kinds of Japanese sake "Yakumo Sake Set
Hoshino Resorts KAI Tamatsukuri
  • Address 1237 Tamatsukuri, Tamayu-cho, Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture MAP
  •  Direction Approximately 20 minutes by car from JR Matsue Station
    5 minutes from JR Tamatsukuri hot spring station by car
  •  TEL 050-3134-8092 (Office hours: 9:30 - 18:00)
The information in this article is current as of the date of the update. Please check before visiting as they are subject to change.